Wednesday, September 28, 2011
What the heck does "NOS" mean?
What the heck is "NOS"? Why do sellers use this word or acronym and what is the hidden meaning behind it?NOS, or New Old Stock, as you see sellers use in their listings... They refer to Old items that have been sitting around for a very long time. So in their eyes, since it wasn't used, it's considered New! But its old. Therefore, it's New but aged.In my eyes, this means absolutely nothing and just a desperate selling tactic to get buyers to buy their new products, passing them off as old or antique, when they really aren't. Everyone knows people will spend a little more money on something that is aged/antique rather than something brand new, for the nostalgia of it. Sellers know this all too well.So be aware of anything that states it's "NOS", or New Old Stock. Good chance, it's really a Brand New item, but the Seller is just trying to pull the wool over your eyes to make it seem like it's old or antique, just to get a few more dollars from an unsuspecting buyer who doesn't know any better. I sell and I also buy on okay. I would never buy anything that is stated as NOS! Either it's new, or it's old.
Electric Cigarette Rolling Machine
I agree with the majority of the reviewers of this type ofelectric tobacco injecting unit. The end result is a dangerous cigarette, no pun intended, that will not burn evenly and will not stay consistently lit. It will also release or drop hot tobacco everywhere if you're not careful,especially when flicking the ashes into the ashtray.I believe ithas to do with the way the auger layers the tobacco into the cigarette tube rather than injecting a geplete load into the tube the way that the majority of hand powered or crank machines operate. You can see by the way electric machines work,the loading process in not consistent, resulting in layers of tobacco being injected the tube, rather than one consistent load. I have tried loading about 6 packs now, less dense to high density, worth of cigarettes using my electric unit, and have all but given up on this unit. I now have a manual injector ordered, and the more I think about it, the whole process of the manual loader seems to make more sense.No layers, just one geplete load into the tube, thus interweaving the tobacco rather than layering it into the tube. I'm hoping for a more consistent smoke, and one that doesn't fall apart,and stays lit during the smoking process.
Selling AG Doll Clothes ~ Cheap Easy Dress Form!
Wow do people ever go crazy with American Girl dolls and clothes! My daughter has recently joined this fad so werapidly aquired way to many outfits and sets for a 10 year old to keep track of! So back onto okay we went with these. We soon found how well they sold so we started shoping the local thrift stores and have since had several to list. Dress forms make these outfits look so slick but we didn't want to invest $30 just to make our listings look neet so we came up with a cheap easy way to make a dress form and you'd never know it wasn't a $30 one from our pictures!
First find a wooden paper towel holder or wooden cup holder. Anything with a round base and a single wood (the fancy carving is a !) dowel geming up from it. Usually the cup stands have the little hanger pegs unscrew out of it. I found mine for a buck at the Goodwill. Then an old 18 inch doll with a soft body. I found an old ratty Battat doll for another buck at the same place. Cut the cable tie at the neck and take the head off. take the stuffing out and snip off the joints on the inside of the body to take off the limbs. Then cut a small hole in the crotch of the doll and slide it over the wooden dowel. Re stuff the doll body. Put a new cable tie (or string if you don't have a cable tie) in the neck and cinch it tight around the top of the wooden dowel. And there you have it! A simple cheap doll dress form! It looks like a sadistic toy torture display if you don't keep clothes on it so keep it hidden when not in use!
Below are some pictures of the finished product
First find a wooden paper towel holder or wooden cup holder. Anything with a round base and a single wood (the fancy carving is a !) dowel geming up from it. Usually the cup stands have the little hanger pegs unscrew out of it. I found mine for a buck at the Goodwill. Then an old 18 inch doll with a soft body. I found an old ratty Battat doll for another buck at the same place. Cut the cable tie at the neck and take the head off. take the stuffing out and snip off the joints on the inside of the body to take off the limbs. Then cut a small hole in the crotch of the doll and slide it over the wooden dowel. Re stuff the doll body. Put a new cable tie (or string if you don't have a cable tie) in the neck and cinch it tight around the top of the wooden dowel. And there you have it! A simple cheap doll dress form! It looks like a sadistic toy torture display if you don't keep clothes on it so keep it hidden when not in use!
Below are some pictures of the finished product
Abercrombie Clothes Size Chart Men
Direct from Abercrombie, this is the size chart for their tops and bottoms.Clothing sizes differ greatly among designers. The only way to be sure a garment will fit, aside from trying it on, is to measure yourself and consult the manufacturers size chart.If you need a tape measure, here is a link to a printable one in Adobe Acrobat (PDF) format: http://pages.okay.ge/sizing/tapemeasure.pdfIf you didn't find the size you were looking for, please take a look at my other sizing guides. Please vote "Yes" belowif you found this guide helpful.
Thanks!
CovertressAbercrombie Size Chart
Mens Sizes Tops Size S M L XL XXL chest 36-38 38-40 40-42 42-44 44-46 sleeve length 32-33 33.5-34.5 34.5-35 35-35.5 35.5-36 S-XL Bottoms Size S M L XL waist 29-31 31-33 33-35 35-37 inseam 30.5 32 32 32.5 Sized Bottoms Size 30R 32R 32L 33R 33L 34R 34L 35R 35L waist 30 32 32 33 33 34 34 35 35inseam 31 32 34 32 34 32 34 32.5 34.5 Womens Sizes Tops Size XS S M L XL bust 31-32.5 33-34.5 35-36.5 37-38.5 39-40 XS-XL Bottoms Size XS S M L XL waist 23-25 25-27 27-29 29-31 31-32 hip 33-35 35-37 37-39 39-41 41-42 Sized Bottoms Size 00' 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 waist 23-24 24-25 25-26 26-27 27-28 28-29 29-30 30-32 hip 32-34 34-35 35-36 36-37 37-38 38-39 39-40 40-42 Ezra Fitch Denim Size 00' 0 2 4 6 8 10 waist 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
Thanks!
CovertressAbercrombie Size Chart
Mens Sizes Tops Size S M L XL XXL chest 36-38 38-40 40-42 42-44 44-46 sleeve length 32-33 33.5-34.5 34.5-35 35-35.5 35.5-36 S-XL Bottoms Size S M L XL waist 29-31 31-33 33-35 35-37 inseam 30.5 32 32 32.5 Sized Bottoms Size 30R 32R 32L 33R 33L 34R 34L 35R 35L waist 30 32 32 33 33 34 34 35 35inseam 31 32 34 32 34 32 34 32.5 34.5 Womens Sizes Tops Size XS S M L XL bust 31-32.5 33-34.5 35-36.5 37-38.5 39-40 XS-XL Bottoms Size XS S M L XL waist 23-25 25-27 27-29 29-31 31-32 hip 33-35 35-37 37-39 39-41 41-42 Sized Bottoms Size 00' 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 waist 23-24 24-25 25-26 26-27 27-28 28-29 29-30 30-32 hip 32-34 34-35 35-36 36-37 37-38 38-39 39-40 40-42 Ezra Fitch Denim Size 00' 0 2 4 6 8 10 waist 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
Lab, Lab Created, Laboratory Created Diamonds
One would think, ifokay takes the time to make a category, the item wouldactually be availableto the public. Not so with Lab Diamonds. Yes, Natural Diamondshave been createdin a Lab, which areidentical to the natural (10 on Moh's scale and carbon based). Problem is, they are seldom over a carat size in the rough, (which cuts about a quarter carat finished stone and they all have a yellow tinge to them. Lab Diamonds cost the same as a natural diamond. I know, you see them so cheap on okay. So what exactly is being sold on okay as Lab Diamonds? Good Question. Probably, Cubic Zirconia, or YAG.You can tell by the size and color of the stones, they are not lab diamonds. Better yet, why do they allow these auctions without proof of actually having such an ungemon, item for sale to protect the buyer. ie a GIA cert or EGLcert.Hopefully, this will help clarify Lab Diamonds and what is being done to unsuspecting buyers.
FAKE NAZI SHOA CONCENTRATION CAMP ARMBANDS - PART 5
This is part 5 in a series of showing you fake Holocaust Jewish Concentration camp armbands that are
being sold by unscrupulous sellers on the internet and sometimes on
okay as well. Please see my guide #1 for explanations why these are fakes and see other pictures ofother fakes I found here on okay.
Also, please vote on this guideand the others , it's the only way for us to make people aware and get the cons off of okay! Thanks!!NOTE!
I copied these scans (with permission) from a really honest okay seller who specifically
states that the armbands that he sells are copies (ie fakes). His okay
name ischabadnik1963 I highly regemend his auctions for all kinds of militaria.
being sold by unscrupulous sellers on the internet and sometimes on
okay as well. Please see my guide #1 for explanations why these are fakes and see other pictures ofother fakes I found here on okay.
Also, please vote on this guideand the others , it's the only way for us to make people aware and get the cons off of okay! Thanks!!NOTE!
I copied these scans (with permission) from a really honest okay seller who specifically
states that the armbands that he sells are copies (ie fakes). His okay
name ischabadnik1963 I highly regemend his auctions for all kinds of militaria.
Helpful GYMBOREE Selling Tips - Getting Started
Thinking of Selling Gymboree on okay? Here area fewhelpful tips to get you started!
1. KNOW your clothes. All of the Gymboree clothes are part of a line. (example "Sweeter Than Chocolate") These lines are not stated on the tags or in the stores. You can find them online and also a valuable website isgymbofriends.ge This site has line identification pictures. Most Gymbo buyers know exactly what they are looking for and when searching for wanted pieces, they will use the line in their search. For example, Social Butterfly dress.
2. When listing your items, make sure to include the words from that line as well as Gymboree and the size. I have found it helpful to include different ways of searching for a size. For example, some people search for size 3 while others search for 3T. I include 3 and 3T in my listing title for this reason. Also, for sizes 6-12 months, I include 6 12 9 in my title for those who may be shopping for sizes 6-9 or 9-12.
3. Obviously, check for spelling errors. Misspellings can reduce traffic to your listings. Check the "line" spellings. For example, a current line is "Candy Shoppe" I list my items as Candy Shoppe and Candy Shop to get more views.
4. If listing as Buy It Now, plan to list it at 60% or less of retail. That's the price point I've had the most success with!
5. Take lots of good pictures. I set my darker pieces up on white poster board and lighter pieces up on black poster board. I take lots of close up pictures to show all the details of the article of clothing. If I am listing a set from one line and I have lots of other items from that line, I will take a picture of all of the items I have and list it with each item stating that the last picture shows other items I have in this line. This will help me get more traffic for other listings.
6. I will often list at least 2 auctions at a time because have auction items brings more traffic to my other BUY IT Now listings. I list my items up for auction that I found at REALLY cheap prices, such as $0.99. That way I don't lose a lot of money if the bidding doesn't go real high.
Check out my other GUIDE on how to get GYMBOREE clothes for CHEAP!
I have other guides for buying Gymboree clothes below retail, how to save on shipping and more!
*****IF THIS GUIDE WAS HELPFUL, PLEASE CLICK YES BELOW! THANKS!*********************
1. KNOW your clothes. All of the Gymboree clothes are part of a line. (example "Sweeter Than Chocolate") These lines are not stated on the tags or in the stores. You can find them online and also a valuable website isgymbofriends.ge This site has line identification pictures. Most Gymbo buyers know exactly what they are looking for and when searching for wanted pieces, they will use the line in their search. For example, Social Butterfly dress.
2. When listing your items, make sure to include the words from that line as well as Gymboree and the size. I have found it helpful to include different ways of searching for a size. For example, some people search for size 3 while others search for 3T. I include 3 and 3T in my listing title for this reason. Also, for sizes 6-12 months, I include 6 12 9 in my title for those who may be shopping for sizes 6-9 or 9-12.
3. Obviously, check for spelling errors. Misspellings can reduce traffic to your listings. Check the "line" spellings. For example, a current line is "Candy Shoppe" I list my items as Candy Shoppe and Candy Shop to get more views.
4. If listing as Buy It Now, plan to list it at 60% or less of retail. That's the price point I've had the most success with!
5. Take lots of good pictures. I set my darker pieces up on white poster board and lighter pieces up on black poster board. I take lots of close up pictures to show all the details of the article of clothing. If I am listing a set from one line and I have lots of other items from that line, I will take a picture of all of the items I have and list it with each item stating that the last picture shows other items I have in this line. This will help me get more traffic for other listings.
6. I will often list at least 2 auctions at a time because have auction items brings more traffic to my other BUY IT Now listings. I list my items up for auction that I found at REALLY cheap prices, such as $0.99. That way I don't lose a lot of money if the bidding doesn't go real high.
Check out my other GUIDE on how to get GYMBOREE clothes for CHEAP!
I have other guides for buying Gymboree clothes below retail, how to save on shipping and more!
*****IF THIS GUIDE WAS HELPFUL, PLEASE CLICK YES BELOW! THANKS!*********************
Manufacturers (by Name) of US Militaria
An intermediate guide by Military-Memorabilia
Categories of emblems known to have been made by each manufacturer are abbreviated as follows:
I= Insignia (service arm, branch, distinctive unit, etc.)M= MedalsP=PlaquesT=TextilesW= Wing qualification badges (aviation, airborne)
A
A.B. Emblems and Caps, Weaverville, NC- T
Ace, Japan. - I
Achievement Products, Inc., East Hanover, NJ- I
Action Embroidery Corp., Ontario, Ca - T
S.G. Adams Stamp
Categories of emblems known to have been made by each manufacturer are abbreviated as follows:
I= Insignia (service arm, branch, distinctive unit, etc.)M= MedalsP=PlaquesT=TextilesW= Wing qualification badges (aviation, airborne)
A
A.B. Emblems and Caps, Weaverville, NC- T
Ace, Japan. - I
Achievement Products, Inc., East Hanover, NJ- I
Action Embroidery Corp., Ontario, Ca - T
S.G. Adams Stamp
Buyer's Guide Zircon
Zircon
Thailand and Cambodia produces some of the world's most beautiful zircons. Originally the colors of zircons from these two sources are dark brown, orangy brown, yellow, yellow brown, red to dark reddish brown ( high zircons ). When heated these colors turn to blue and some begee colorless. Cut zircons can be very beautiful displaying a high dispersion and a high brilliancy with a diffused appearance due to its strong doubly refractive optical character. Zircon is brittle so care must be taken when setting the gem. The setting itself should protect the gem from exposing surfaces edges as much as possible for added protection. Sri Lanka and Burma also produces zircons. These two cources provide colors in green, dark green, brown,brown green ( low zircons ) yellow, yellow brown ( mediun zircons ) and an occasional red. The greens contain tiny metamict crystals with halo tnsion cracks around it. The prismatic crystals maybe radioactive elements such as U and Th. It has been reported in gemological literature that the radioactivity destroys the crystal lattice and if left long enough the crystal itself begees and transforms into a mixture of quartz and zirconium oxide of an amorphous nature. Zircon's identifying features are its spectrum lines at 6535 and 6590 which are usually distinctly visible. Zircons gees in small and large sizes of up to 100 carats. Clean ones are rare. Colorless varieties are used as a diamond substitute. Collectors strive to gather a sample piece from each source with varying colors. Some study the internal inclusions sith attention to shape, color, forms and placements of the embedded crystals within the gem.
Medium dark, pure blue stones have the highest per carat value, estimated by Sinkankas (Standard Catalog of Gem Values, 2nd. Ed), at $150-$300 in large sizes, followed by blue with a slight greenish cast at about $100/ct.
Thailand and Cambodia produces some of the world's most beautiful zircons. Originally the colors of zircons from these two sources are dark brown, orangy brown, yellow, yellow brown, red to dark reddish brown ( high zircons ). When heated these colors turn to blue and some begee colorless. Cut zircons can be very beautiful displaying a high dispersion and a high brilliancy with a diffused appearance due to its strong doubly refractive optical character. Zircon is brittle so care must be taken when setting the gem. The setting itself should protect the gem from exposing surfaces edges as much as possible for added protection. Sri Lanka and Burma also produces zircons. These two cources provide colors in green, dark green, brown,brown green ( low zircons ) yellow, yellow brown ( mediun zircons ) and an occasional red. The greens contain tiny metamict crystals with halo tnsion cracks around it. The prismatic crystals maybe radioactive elements such as U and Th. It has been reported in gemological literature that the radioactivity destroys the crystal lattice and if left long enough the crystal itself begees and transforms into a mixture of quartz and zirconium oxide of an amorphous nature. Zircon's identifying features are its spectrum lines at 6535 and 6590 which are usually distinctly visible. Zircons gees in small and large sizes of up to 100 carats. Clean ones are rare. Colorless varieties are used as a diamond substitute. Collectors strive to gather a sample piece from each source with varying colors. Some study the internal inclusions sith attention to shape, color, forms and placements of the embedded crystals within the gem.
Medium dark, pure blue stones have the highest per carat value, estimated by Sinkankas (Standard Catalog of Gem Values, 2nd. Ed), at $150-$300 in large sizes, followed by blue with a slight greenish cast at about $100/ct.
Eden Pure Heaters
Heads up, before being taken in by the 'Eden Pure' heater scam. They sell these on the concept that they are using "cured copper", which supposedly has these amazing abilities to retain heat for an extremely long period of time. If you simply do a syntax search for "cured copper" (using the parenthesis to define your search), you will find out that there is no such thing. Eden Pure is just another glorified electric heater. AND, if you look up "Eden Pure reviews", that will tell you the entire story. The guy that delivered that huge ugly thing to my mother's house (after I researched it, and warned her to save her money) told her to "keep the box"...because he's always picking up customer returns for these things. It's just a big ugly electric heater. Save your money. If you want an electric heater, at least spend your money on something that you like looking at. Like, an electric fireplace. They have those in many many price ranges. You don't need a big one to get alot of heat from it. And you can then also enjoy the looks AND the ambiance of the realistic flame. My mother spent $400 dollars for that 'thing'. She even put it away for the holidays...if that tells you anything about it's 'looks'. I asked her if she is using any less propane this year than last, and apparently it's not a huge change, because she said it still cost her $350 to top off her tank last month. So, I asked her if she saw any difference in her electric bill, and she was just a teensy bit evasive about that too...explaining that "well you know, your brother uses that other heater in the basement sometimes...so, I'm not really sure". (She's not intentionally being 'evasive'...she just knows that I researched the Eden Pure, and was very against her spending the money on it, after reading thoroughly about it). Oh well, it's her money...and she can spend it any way that she wants. I was just trying to help her. As, I am trying to help anybody else that may think that this is some new 'revolutionary' heater. 1500 watts is 1500 watts...no matter how you look at it.
There's an interesting video about this situation on youtube.ge. If you go to youtube, enter Eden Pure Scam into the search box, and, it's the first video that you'll find.
And, if you look at the other Eden Pure videos on youtube...you'll notice that most of them are from dealers. Those are the videos that have all of the claims about how you'll save BIG by buying an Eden Pure.
There's an interesting video about this situation on youtube.ge. If you go to youtube, enter Eden Pure Scam into the search box, and, it's the first video that you'll find.
And, if you look at the other Eden Pure videos on youtube...you'll notice that most of them are from dealers. Those are the videos that have all of the claims about how you'll save BIG by buying an Eden Pure.
William Mark My Mystery UFO
William Mark My Mystery UFO. --- Way Over priced!! I bought one and I was highly disappointed with it. It is not some magical flying toy that is easy to work with and I think it should be advertised for what it really is.You can throw it like a Frisbee and it will fly ,but that's about it.It is a 2 cents worth of card board that you have to attach to about a two foot length of this invisible thread (it is really hard to see) and some gummy tack that you have to attach to the toy and then behind your ear. Next you place it on a table and spin it.Then you manipulate the thread with your hand to make it look like it is flying. This takes practice. They don't mention that in any of the adds I have ever seen. There are a few videos out there(you tube) that show this in action and I will admit it does look pretty cool, but that is with someone who has worked a while with it.I should have known better but I was duped.Stupid Me! It is then shipped in an over sized box so they can charge you extra for shipping. The whole thing is worth about 25 cents. The packaging it gees in probably costs more to make than the item. Postage should not be more than $1.25. So if you see one for $2.00 that includes shipping then I would say go ahead and buy it. If you like doing magic tricks. Other than that avoid this product all together.They sell a flying card trick that does the same thing the exact same way.
How to authenticate a Nokia Arte 8800 / sapphire/ carbo
First off, 99% of the artes on okay are FAKE! First when you receive the box, MADE IN FINLAND IS FAKE MADE BY NOKIA IS FAKE! only one thats original is MADE IN KOREA. Done! Make sure the package matches the package on NOKIA.ge. Also, the booklets should be of high quality, not offcentered copies. Also, US chargers are fakes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I think there is a UAE version with arabic lettering. Do lots of research. okay is home to fakes for all products!!!!!
German Third Reich Paper Money with Bogus Stamps
There are quite a few people paying ridiculous amounts for paper money from the Third Reich era that have been stamped with various unit stamps(usually SS TK). Notice that the seller states that the notes are genuine but he cannot guarantee they weren't stamped after the war. Well, they WERE stamped after the war. Probably right before being auctioned.
They are geniune notes that have been ruined with bogus stamps. Why would an SS division stamp national currency with their unit stamp? The answer is: they didn't. It was most likely illegal to deface currency just as it has always beenin the U.S. and most countries. Save your money and buy less expensivegenuine notes that have not been trashed.
They are geniune notes that have been ruined with bogus stamps. Why would an SS division stamp national currency with their unit stamp? The answer is: they didn't. It was most likely illegal to deface currency just as it has always beenin the U.S. and most countries. Save your money and buy less expensivegenuine notes that have not been trashed.
CYPER BULLYING AND s STALKING...WHAT TO DO?
I wanted to reach out to others on okay that have gone through the ordeal of being stalked by a total stranger as we have. Anyone searching the netunder (okay stalking) will find this and know they aren't alone!
I use this okayaccount...enchanted_grove.. for buying items nowon okaybut have other okayaccountsthat we use for meto be able tosell (under my field)......using a different name,state andhave changed my namethrough okay andonpaypal accounts appearing nowto be (another seller) on all mypaper trails.I have done this to be able to (sell in peace) and also to protect my home and family. I willonce in a while in ablue moon list something for sale on okayunder..enchanted_grove...Using my real name and personalbank account...Just to throw off this ( mindless idiot ) stalker that hastargeted me on okay thislast year and continues to do so to this day! I makemy selling feedback as private as possibledue to this okaystalker contactingmy past buyer's andpretending to beaunhappy customer of mine..!!Thank god, I never gave anyone my websites that I also sell items on!!
I'm very glad this did happen to me in my lifebecause it made me aware of how loose I was toward giving out mypersonalinformation to ( faceless strangers ) over the netand posting on the netlogging in withmy private email account and now Ihave another new email account usedjustfor publicgements and posts on the net with a online name!
I am aware that while most people buying and emailing you are kind and well meaning people that are honest and educated adults looking to just have pleasant tradingwith others!but sadly In 2009...there are those thatlurk online and are twisted stalkers..that are mostlymiddle aged, under educated,over weight, unhappy, alone and bored in life,unstable people with a history ofhavingsocial problems in the (real world ) so they turn toward the net! so theymay hide behind a screen!they willprey on your kindness and trust with lies and gamesbut theyare in factnow(stalking you) andfeeling thatthey have a right to push their personal attention's on youand be involvedin your private life and privateinformation and in yourentireworld.
My okaystalker not only posted he was on medication from a doctor for depression but went as far as to post on a publicnet site that hehad a historyof family mental disorders and even familysuicide! all of this camefrom the police tracing backhis private email addresses used to stalk my family. My advise to anyone being stalked is don't try toREASON orHELP the person..They are stalkers and you are a total stranger!and theyare veryill! They need a mental healthdoctor not your kindness! That only makes them worse wanting your attention..negative attention is a also aform of attention to them! don'tgo to anyokay or netsites you knowthey go or post at! don'tlook up anything they are doing against you! ask others to please Not inform you as you don't care because the person is veryill and needs medicalhelp not your energy and time orattention.
It's verysimple....... the stalker attempts to contact youto invade your world in (many forms)through personal force orother 3rd partypeopleor business dealingsor letter's or phone calls through pretending to be other people even changing their sex from (male to female) in emails. Gettingyour private info either real or made up justto get a reaction from you! Using publicblogs and threads posting about you to degrade or belittle youin public even posting your photos they steal off myspace or your ownprivate sites!
You justdon't respond or react or care!....Refuse to eventalk to anyone other then personal friends and family in personabout the stalker! He is dead in your eyes and life!..SILENCE..along with not looking at anything the stalker (sends your way) is the key to ending the stalking experience in your life! I live my life in the full open viewand don't fear or care how this man wastes his time making himself look crazy in public...fixed on me!
Stalking is a crime! and Stalker's have criminal minds and are (master liars)..this man sells haunted dolls,regular dolls,toys and vintage itemson okaythen hestartshis ownokaythreadswith first his real okay account then changing to ones witheither(0 or 1 or 11 or somemore)feedback scores.His(many other)okayaccounts that he uses( false info ) and new (okay user names ) switches between male and female..
STARTING thesethreads on okaytopost anddegrade the otherhaunted doll sellers in his same sellingfield.He wouldevenmove from okaysite to site saying howdisgusted he was at (their scam )when he was indeed one of them! They also were public tools where he alsodegraded certain okaysellers in(different selling fields)that he wasstalking on line!Stalkers are what people use to call messy, trouble makers and we all just use toavoid them in public!stalkers enjoy causing fights between peopleand on threadsthen justsitting back and watching! Using others feelings and hurting people is...just..simple entertainment to stalkers!They seek constant negativedramas and to control others and the public floor!! give them neither!
I do very well in my auctions onokay stillselling in the ( my same oldfields )but to ensure my peaceI have changed how I work on okay. Ihave even changed (my style ) when listing anduse different terms and wording and evendesignsfor my auctions now when I listand my other okay Idshave went by(unnoticed ) by this (so called ) smart, well traveled,educated stalker.... which he loves topretends to be!
In the real worldhe wasproven to be a middle aged baldingman with verylittle education working a ( hands on tradejob) with verylittle training.Which is easy to seein his okay auctions using huge print like heis just learning to read and write alsosaying for example...see..instead of the word... sale..or leaving letters out all together. This man even forgets to post photos or displays broken or dirty objects with the itemin his photo's. My point isn't to make fun of the poor guy but allow others being stalked to know that stalkers pretend to be living in a world they are not! and to be someone they arenot! Stalkersdegradetheir target out of mentalillness and self hate!How do I knowStalkers are also mentally ill?and what are the sign's of a stalker? Ask yourself this question..If you got mad at a (total stranger) online for whatever reason WOULD I EVER....?
Pretend to be other people to talk to them in emails..all at the same time?
Buy items from them justto get their address and phone number?
Buy items from them justto get their paypal account holders name?
Start threads about what ( they sell ) so you can draw attention to them and degrade them even their kids?Example..Book sellers are they honest people?
Goggle and Zillow and map quest their home address and print out copies?
Post that you plan to gee to their home when you arestates away?
Steal and copy photos of them and their family from myspaceor items theyliston okay and use them in your okayauctions or post them on the net?
Pay moneyfor a detailedbackground report on people search? for info ona total stranger?
Would you call their home phone pretending to look for someone just to talk with them? then post they sound like theyhave a cold.. online?
Hang up all hours of the night? to someone you have never seen? Someone with a small child at home answering the phone?
Post their privateinfo (even lies) about their marriages or children or sex life or money matters on line? Privatethings you could never know?
Print out all things they sell on okayand who bought what item and whenand for over a year? watching their feedback everyday?
Contact people from the strangers feedback pretending to be a former buyer?
Send insulting...name calling emails to them..then forward their responses to you...toothers hoping toget other (unknowingpeople)involved or tohelp you get info on you? then ask friends and family to contact them also?
Would you open new bogus okay accountswith no feedbackso you could bid on their items they list andwinand not pay! over and over and over?
Would you ask your friends to bid and buy theiritems for you! so to a connection with the stranger? then post your friends know them!
Would you make up mock auctions using their realnames and photos todegrade someone you have never met before?because they have rejected you?..Example..for sale on okay...Ugly, Fat BearNamed MARIA!.. Bearfrom TAMPA!.. Does Smell!..WITCH OWNED!
Would you drive hundreds of miles and states away on a weekend to snap photos of their home and family from the roadthen drive home and post the photosto let them know you were there? and call from a local phone booth?
Would you use different okay IDs to (vote down) a guide written bythis stranger because they weretryingto help others avoidtheir mistakes madeon okay?
The answers to all the aboveis....NO!.. of course not! You justwould never deal or contact thestrangeragain and justmove on!...because your anormal person! all of the above and morewas done to me by a twisted mindedstalker and some other people that have emailed me..This stalker issurfing and selling on okay.
I use this okayaccount...enchanted_grove.. for buying items nowon okaybut have other okayaccountsthat we use for meto be able tosell (under my field)......using a different name,state andhave changed my namethrough okay andonpaypal accounts appearing nowto be (another seller) on all mypaper trails.I have done this to be able to (sell in peace) and also to protect my home and family. I willonce in a while in ablue moon list something for sale on okayunder..enchanted_grove...Using my real name and personalbank account...Just to throw off this ( mindless idiot ) stalker that hastargeted me on okay thislast year and continues to do so to this day! I makemy selling feedback as private as possibledue to this okaystalker contactingmy past buyer's andpretending to beaunhappy customer of mine..!!Thank god, I never gave anyone my websites that I also sell items on!!
I'm very glad this did happen to me in my lifebecause it made me aware of how loose I was toward giving out mypersonalinformation to ( faceless strangers ) over the netand posting on the netlogging in withmy private email account and now Ihave another new email account usedjustfor publicgements and posts on the net with a online name!
I am aware that while most people buying and emailing you are kind and well meaning people that are honest and educated adults looking to just have pleasant tradingwith others!but sadly In 2009...there are those thatlurk online and are twisted stalkers..that are mostlymiddle aged, under educated,over weight, unhappy, alone and bored in life,unstable people with a history ofhavingsocial problems in the (real world ) so they turn toward the net! so theymay hide behind a screen!they willprey on your kindness and trust with lies and gamesbut theyare in factnow(stalking you) andfeeling thatthey have a right to push their personal attention's on youand be involvedin your private life and privateinformation and in yourentireworld.
My okaystalker not only posted he was on medication from a doctor for depression but went as far as to post on a publicnet site that hehad a historyof family mental disorders and even familysuicide! all of this camefrom the police tracing backhis private email addresses used to stalk my family. My advise to anyone being stalked is don't try toREASON orHELP the person..They are stalkers and you are a total stranger!and theyare veryill! They need a mental healthdoctor not your kindness! That only makes them worse wanting your attention..negative attention is a also aform of attention to them! don'tgo to anyokay or netsites you knowthey go or post at! don'tlook up anything they are doing against you! ask others to please Not inform you as you don't care because the person is veryill and needs medicalhelp not your energy and time orattention.
It's verysimple....... the stalker attempts to contact youto invade your world in (many forms)through personal force orother 3rd partypeopleor business dealingsor letter's or phone calls through pretending to be other people even changing their sex from (male to female) in emails. Gettingyour private info either real or made up justto get a reaction from you! Using publicblogs and threads posting about you to degrade or belittle youin public even posting your photos they steal off myspace or your ownprivate sites!
You justdon't respond or react or care!....Refuse to eventalk to anyone other then personal friends and family in personabout the stalker! He is dead in your eyes and life!..SILENCE..along with not looking at anything the stalker (sends your way) is the key to ending the stalking experience in your life! I live my life in the full open viewand don't fear or care how this man wastes his time making himself look crazy in public...fixed on me!
Stalking is a crime! and Stalker's have criminal minds and are (master liars)..this man sells haunted dolls,regular dolls,toys and vintage itemson okaythen hestartshis ownokaythreadswith first his real okay account then changing to ones witheither(0 or 1 or 11 or somemore)feedback scores.His(many other)okayaccounts that he uses( false info ) and new (okay user names ) switches between male and female..
STARTING thesethreads on okaytopost anddegrade the otherhaunted doll sellers in his same sellingfield.He wouldevenmove from okaysite to site saying howdisgusted he was at (their scam )when he was indeed one of them! They also were public tools where he alsodegraded certain okaysellers in(different selling fields)that he wasstalking on line!Stalkers are what people use to call messy, trouble makers and we all just use toavoid them in public!stalkers enjoy causing fights between peopleand on threadsthen justsitting back and watching! Using others feelings and hurting people is...just..simple entertainment to stalkers!They seek constant negativedramas and to control others and the public floor!! give them neither!
I do very well in my auctions onokay stillselling in the ( my same oldfields )but to ensure my peaceI have changed how I work on okay. Ihave even changed (my style ) when listing anduse different terms and wording and evendesignsfor my auctions now when I listand my other okay Idshave went by(unnoticed ) by this (so called ) smart, well traveled,educated stalker.... which he loves topretends to be!
In the real worldhe wasproven to be a middle aged baldingman with verylittle education working a ( hands on tradejob) with verylittle training.Which is easy to seein his okay auctions using huge print like heis just learning to read and write alsosaying for example...see..instead of the word... sale..or leaving letters out all together. This man even forgets to post photos or displays broken or dirty objects with the itemin his photo's. My point isn't to make fun of the poor guy but allow others being stalked to know that stalkers pretend to be living in a world they are not! and to be someone they arenot! Stalkersdegradetheir target out of mentalillness and self hate!How do I knowStalkers are also mentally ill?and what are the sign's of a stalker? Ask yourself this question..If you got mad at a (total stranger) online for whatever reason WOULD I EVER....?
Pretend to be other people to talk to them in emails..all at the same time?
Buy items from them justto get their address and phone number?
Buy items from them justto get their paypal account holders name?
Start threads about what ( they sell ) so you can draw attention to them and degrade them even their kids?Example..Book sellers are they honest people?
Goggle and Zillow and map quest their home address and print out copies?
Post that you plan to gee to their home when you arestates away?
Steal and copy photos of them and their family from myspaceor items theyliston okay and use them in your okayauctions or post them on the net?
Pay moneyfor a detailedbackground report on people search? for info ona total stranger?
Would you call their home phone pretending to look for someone just to talk with them? then post they sound like theyhave a cold.. online?
Hang up all hours of the night? to someone you have never seen? Someone with a small child at home answering the phone?
Post their privateinfo (even lies) about their marriages or children or sex life or money matters on line? Privatethings you could never know?
Print out all things they sell on okayand who bought what item and whenand for over a year? watching their feedback everyday?
Contact people from the strangers feedback pretending to be a former buyer?
Send insulting...name calling emails to them..then forward their responses to you...toothers hoping toget other (unknowingpeople)involved or tohelp you get info on you? then ask friends and family to contact them also?
Would you open new bogus okay accountswith no feedbackso you could bid on their items they list andwinand not pay! over and over and over?
Would you ask your friends to bid and buy theiritems for you! so to a connection with the stranger? then post your friends know them!
Would you make up mock auctions using their realnames and photos todegrade someone you have never met before?because they have rejected you?..Example..for sale on okay...Ugly, Fat BearNamed MARIA!.. Bearfrom TAMPA!.. Does Smell!..WITCH OWNED!
Would you drive hundreds of miles and states away on a weekend to snap photos of their home and family from the roadthen drive home and post the photosto let them know you were there? and call from a local phone booth?
Would you use different okay IDs to (vote down) a guide written bythis stranger because they weretryingto help others avoidtheir mistakes madeon okay?
The answers to all the aboveis....NO!.. of course not! You justwould never deal or contact thestrangeragain and justmove on!...because your anormal person! all of the above and morewas done to me by a twisted mindedstalker and some other people that have emailed me..This stalker issurfing and selling on okay.
How to clean resin from reusable cups:
If the resin is still wet spray cup with cooking spray (Pam), wipe with paper towel or better yet those blue shop type paper towels and wipe again with acetone or de-natured alcohol. If resin has dried in cup, flex cup and peel off dried resin. For stubborn dried resin, soak cup in water with Tide detergent.
THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT COLLECTING DEPRESSION GLASS
DEPRESSION GLASS
If you are new to the world of Depression Glass this might help you to understand what seems to be impossible to understand. Depression Glass doesn't have to be Depressing Glass.With a little knowledge, you can quickly begee well educated andwill enjoy collecting and using your glass.
FIRST: Decide which pattern you like best. This can be done in a variety of ways. Perhaps something a friend or Grandmother had? Maybe something you saw in a book or on okay or an antique store? Next, decide a color. Not all patterns gee in all colors. Just because a pattern gees in a variety of colors does not mean it can be found readily in all colors. Now research the prices of your selection and color to see if it is feasible to obtain what you have selected for prices realistic to your budget.
SECOND: Any Collection is going to take time. Some pieces will be easily found, others will take years to find. Don't give up. okay and other sites on line make finding your treasures much easier.
THIRD: Beware! Many patterns have been reproduced, copied, re-issued, and out right fakes. And just because it says it is something in the listing, doesn't make it so! Believe it or not, some sellers don't have a clue. And some sellers who have tons of knowledge and have sold depression glass for years and years, can make a mistake. (Guilty) It happens. Have you seen pieces of Sharon listed as Mayfair and vice versa? How about Patrician and Madrid? I see it all the time on okay. So know your pattern and just because it says it is something, make sure you study the pictures and decide for yourself.
WHAT TO EXPECT WHEN YOU GET YOUR GLASS
ABOUT DEPRESSION GLASS: Keep in mind, that Depression Glass was made in the very early 1900s typically between the 1920s and 30s. Some books attribute the status to items made into the 40s. It was mass produced for the masses. Made as afordable as possible so every person could afford it. And that would not have been easy during the depression years of the 30s. Most depression glass (though it varies from pattern to patter) was made very cheaply. It was not intended to be saved for generations or collected 60 to 90 years later. Quality control was week at best. Items routinely passed into the market with what are known as factory flaws.Personally, I think if depression glass was made in this same fashion today, it would never make it onto store shelves. Too many flaws right from the factory. Today's collectors recognize these as charactoristics, not flaws. Here are some of the Charactoristics you should expect to find.
STRAW MARKS OR MOLD MARKS: These are typically seen as what at first appears to be a deep scratch or crack in the glass, but upon closer inspection, you realize it is an impressed line in the glass that was from making. It is easy to tell. It is not extremely deep, does not penetrate through the glass. Is on one side of the glass. Typically irregular in shape. Varies from piece to piece. Most sellers will mention straw marks so you know because they are one of the more readily seen charactoristics and depending on location and size, you may choose to pass on a piece with too strong a mold mark or straw mark.
FLASH OVER: If you look carefully at some depression glass, you will see what is known as flash over. It is typically seen as sharp edges on plates or foot rims of other pieces, around handles. It is where glass slipped through the mold when the piece was made. It formed an extremely tiny very thin protrusion of glass where it slipped through. It is more gemonly felt than seen unless using a magnifying glass. It simply feels sharp. The key to this characteristic that separates it from actual flaws is that it protrudes.
BUBBLES: Bubbles are far less gemon in todays modern glass, but in the old days, bubbles were quite gemon. Much depression glass will have bubbles. Again, this is a charactoristic that should be expected. When does a bubble begee a flaw? When it touches the surface and either protrudes up from the surface, or breaks the surface. These should be disclosed by sellers. These are still good usable items, depending on the size of the bubble and location.
COLOR: There will be some color variation to depression glass of the same pattern and maker. Glass is made using specific formulas. So much of this and that. Most formulas are made in batches and considering that most glass patterns weremade for anywhere from 2 to 40 years, it is gemon for the formulas to have been made ever so slightly different causing a slightly different hue. Instead of 4 pounds of this, maybe they got 4.03 pounds. Maybe the supplier changed something in their supplies. Most will blend with little if any significant difference. If you find a major difference, odds are you may have either a repro or an oddity.
FLAWS
Like anything glass, you are bound to find lots of after market flaws added to your glassware. Does a flaw make an item less usefull or less valuable? Sometimes and Yes. Depending on the flaw, many items are still as usable as the day they were made. They do tend to make the items less valuable, but not always. There are terms associated with flaws that are sometimes fairly self explanatory and other times not easily understood by the experienced collector or dealer. There seems to be a general consensous to the terminology used, but I have never actually found any official definition of the terms. Here are types of flaws to be aware of aand how we describe them
FLEABITES or FLEA BITES: Often grossly overused. This term is meant to mean a tiny nick on the glass (typically found on rims) about the size of a flea's bite. Too small to reasonablly measure. You can usually feel these with your fingernail or find them with a magnifying glass, though some with good eyesight will see them more readily than others. They are the type thing that you will not notice when in use or display.
FLAKES: A flake is a sliver shaped chip that runs with the surface. It does not protrude down into the glass very deeply at all. Mostly a small surface issue. Often found on foot rims, rims of plates, etc. Depending on the location or size, these can have an affect on value. They quite often do not affect the shape of the rim. That is to say, if you look down at a plate sitting on a table that has a rim flake, typically it will not affect the roundness of the plate.
CHIPS: Chips are just that. Be they flakes that got deep into the glass andchanged the shape of the rims or more gemonly, a chip that goes clean through the item. You see these on rims of glasses, rims of plates and pretty much any other piece. They change the shape of the item so the glass is chipped out from from to back or top to bottom. Much more easily seen. These will always affect the value of an item and should always be disclosed.
CRACKS: When dealing with porcelain, cracks are more gemon and can sometimes be stopped in their tracks or repaired to some degree. When dealing with glass, cracks are killers. At least for me. Unless that item is so extremely rare as to warrant keeping it, a crack around here goes into the trash can or out to someone looking for scrap glass for various art projects. I would regemend the same to you.
STRESS LINES: Stress lines are cracks distant cousins. They appear as stress marks on the surface of the glass. These are found around handles, spouts, and especially around holes where items are bolted together as in the case of the tiered tidbit trays. They are typically very fine lines, sometimes singular, sometimes in little groupings. Think of them as the crows feet that appear around your eyes as you get a few years older. They are typically caused by the stress to the glass in the making process but can be made from years of use too. Be sure you know what you are looking at and exactly what kind of stress mark. If they are the fine lines extremely short, and just barely visible, not so bad. If they are through the glass, then they are a crack, not just a stress line anymore.
SCRATCHES: There are various degress of scratches. Most of this stuff has been used for years. Knives and forks ran their course over them for years. You will be surprized at how many piece show relatively little wear from use. Some pieces will be highly scratched though. There is no way to remove scratches without buffing and that may or may not help depending on the situation and can be costly. Most plates will show some scratches, though they are often seen only if you hold them to the light and teeter them back and forth. That should not be an issueto you. If it is, then select a brand new patter. Depression glass is not for you. If you think you have plates that don't have some sort of scratches on them, then you are likely either mistaken or extremely lucky.
GLASS SICKNESS: This is most gemonly found on shakers and cruets, though it can be found on other items like decanters. It gees from a couple sources. Salt shakers are especially prone. Salt eats at the inside of the shaker. It would have been ideal if the salt were removed after each use, but face it. It sat on the table between uses. As the salt scratched at the surface, it begees cloudy and looks sick. You cannot get it out. You can use various acids, sometimes false teeth cleaner can help. You can have it tumbled by a professional. That is your best hope, but most likely it will either not clean up, or if it does, it will retain quickly. Cruets and decanters get the same problems, but generally from moisture trapped inside. They get washed, drip dry (how you going to get a drying towel inside a cruet?) and then the stopper goes on and the remaining moisture is trapped to evaporate within the glass leaving deposits. If you are furtunate enough to have shakers that are not sick, empty them after every use. If you have a cruet or decanter without stains, dry it by placing a hose from an aquarium pump inside it and pumping air in it with the stopper off. That will preserve it in the pristine condition.
CARING FOR YOUR DEPRESSION GLASS
Personally I regemend hand washing your depression glass with a mild detergent and soft wash cloth. I know many people who use dishwashers, but I just personally would not put it in the dishwasher. If you do, use the gentle cycle if you have one. And as gemon sense will tell you, don't submerge cold glass into hot water or vice versa. I never use my depression glass in a microwave, mostly because I have not read any reports on the effects on the glass. I would assume it to be safe, but why put any valable collectible in the microwave? Empty shakers after each use. Dry cruets and decanters with an air hose from an aquarium pump and pump air inside the cruet or decanter until dry.
Storeyour glasswarewisely. I place a styrofoam plate between each of my plates. Saucers I generally have to use paper or plastic plates because I cannot find the Styrofoam in that size. I place papertowels between my cups in the cupboards if theyare to be stacked. They are glass. Treat them with respect and they will last another 100 years. Abuse them and they will go to pieces.
REPAIRS
Can damaged glass be repaired? Possibly. It depends on the item, the damage and the repairer. Light scratches can sometimes be buffed out. I generally don't regemend it becuase years of experience has taught us that if you buff it out, it begees even more suseptible to new scratches. Fleabites or very small chips can sometimes be ground out or polished. This is gemon to stemware and tumblers. They are delicate items and often found themselves with tiny nicks or fleabites. An experienced expert can often polish a rim and get rid of the fleabites though they will loose a certain number in the process. If you are going to grind or buff glass, you are going to have some breakage. I don't have the hand for it. It takes a steady hand and keen eyesight. If it works, the end results are you have your glass repaired. However, the original rim is no longer there. They typically have to polish all around the rim to keep it uniform in height. You don't want one side sagging lower. This changes the height maybe 1/8 of an inch. Hardly noticable unless sitting side by side with anoriginal piece. But it will have an effect on the value should you ever decide to sell it.
Chips and flakes are nearly impossible to repair. There are new resins and epoxies that have been used by some to fill in small chips, but they are almost always distinguishable with the naked eye and always distinguishable to the expert. Is it worth it? Likely in todays day and age, you can find a replacement just as cheaply as a repair. Unless it is the rare item.
WHAT'S WRONG WITH REPRODUCTIONS GLASSWARE?
So you have a collection but need more pieces. You can buy that hard to find piece on the Internet, but they want $300 for it. Or you can get that look alike reproduction for $20. Seems like the smarter move, unless you want quality and a matching piece. The repro is not going to match in color and likely not in size. The pattern is going to be weak and not match exactly. It is valuless in a collection and if you sell off your collection in the future, make sure you pull any repros out of the collection first. If a person knows their glass, they will spot it instantly and that leads them to immediately begee suspicious of the entire set. You have spent a good amount of money gathering your prized collection. Do you really want a reproduction that someone made for the sheer purpuse of fooling people and ripping them off? Watch out, they run rampant on okay and everywhere. Know your glass. Invest in books. They tell you what is known to be reproduced and how to tell them from the authentic. REPRODUCTIONS HAVE NO VALUE IN AN AUTHENTIC COLLECTION OF DEPRESSION GLASS.
RE-ISSUES: Re-issues are items that were made by a gepany, then years later re-issued usually by the same gepany. Federal Glass did it with their Madrid Pattern. You can tell it from the original because it was marked with a 76 on the underside, provided someone has not buffed the numbers away. The 76 refers to the year 1976 when it was made. Indiana Glass did it with their Pyramid pattern. It was re-issued in the 80s by Tiara, a division of Indiana Glass. It was not made in the orignal colors so it is easy to tell. Re-issued glass is almost always done in honesty and issued with tell tale signs to distinguish it from the vintage, be it color or numbers or some other marking. There is nothing wrong with re-issues, but they are not depression glass. Just depression glass patterns.
IS IT RARE OR FAKE?
So you just found a piece of your pattern at a garage sale and cannot find any word on it in your books. Is it rare or a fake? This can be difficult for the beginner to determine. Gene Florence has written several books on the Rare Treasuresof the Depression Glass Era. They would be well worth your time to check out at the local library or pick up a copy on okay or local books store.
Many authors write about the morgue in their books. The morgue is a place in the glass factories where pieces were stored that were experimental, never produced for the markets. Some of these items found their way onto the streets and into collections. Most are in museums. We just sold a delphite blue Colony water Goblet. Well documented as an experimental piece. Some exist in chocolate too. Very hard to find. Our goblet brought $175. We currently have a Moonstone bowl and underplate listed. One piece is shown in one of Gene Florence's books, but as far as we have been able to tell, the other piece has never been shown to exist other than the one we have. We have had many such pieces over the years. We are fortunate to live in near where much of the glass and pottery was made and have purchased from factory workers, and obtained items from the factory presidents estates too. Some extremely rare pieces have passed through our hands right here on okay. More will be found by us an others and possibly by you. Another good source to determine if you have found a treasure of a fake is the Internet. There are many good sites (as well as books) on fake items. Most collector societies post photos of fakes and repros. They can be seen for free as the colloctor associations wish to help you know a fake from a real item. Finally search okay and search the Internet. If you item is fake, it won't take long to find many of them showing up on okay and the net. Some are honestly thought to be real by less experienced dealers. A Fostoria Egg Plate sold on okay recently for an outragesous sum. It wasn't Fostoria. Fostoria never made that pattern. It was misrepresented by the seller either by honest mistake or by crookedness. A simple look around okay would have alerted the seller to their error and alerted the buyer not to bid since the item was readily available on okay for the low price of $4.99 through other sellers who correctly identified it.
BEST ADVISE
The best advice to adhere to regardless of what you collect, is to find a dealer you trust. An experienced dealer who knows their stuff and is honest. We sell hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of depression glass each year and hope you will consider us, but whomever you choose to do business with, make sure they have a good reputation. Check their feedback. Understand that any seller is going to have some bad feedback. It is nearly impossible not to as people are people and as much as there are some unreasonable crooked sellers out there, there are just as many unreasonable crooked buyers. Most sellers are very honest. Some are both honest and know what they are talking about. Some don't have a clue. Sure, take a chance. There are sellers who list things and tell you right up front they don't know what they have. I have bought lots off okay from inexperienced sellers who don't even try to determine a maker or pattern. Bought for pennies on the dollar. But if you routinely run into problems with a seller, go elsewhere. If you slam a door on your hand, you quickly learn not to do it again. Why not learn the same lesson. If you get burned and a seller does not want to make things right, go elsewhere. If you get a great item for a good reasonable price, even if you have to pay a little more, then its worth it. There is a reason the price is slightly higher, more buyers are bidding it up because they know the seller is trustworthy. Spending a tiny bit more for the peace of mind is much better than getting a deal that turns out to be fake or have hidden damages.
AND ASK QUESTIONS! DEALERS ARE MORE THAN HAPPY TO HELP AND ANSWER QUESTIONS.
NOW GO SHOPPING
If you are new to the world of Depression Glass this might help you to understand what seems to be impossible to understand. Depression Glass doesn't have to be Depressing Glass.With a little knowledge, you can quickly begee well educated andwill enjoy collecting and using your glass.
FIRST: Decide which pattern you like best. This can be done in a variety of ways. Perhaps something a friend or Grandmother had? Maybe something you saw in a book or on okay or an antique store? Next, decide a color. Not all patterns gee in all colors. Just because a pattern gees in a variety of colors does not mean it can be found readily in all colors. Now research the prices of your selection and color to see if it is feasible to obtain what you have selected for prices realistic to your budget.
SECOND: Any Collection is going to take time. Some pieces will be easily found, others will take years to find. Don't give up. okay and other sites on line make finding your treasures much easier.
THIRD: Beware! Many patterns have been reproduced, copied, re-issued, and out right fakes. And just because it says it is something in the listing, doesn't make it so! Believe it or not, some sellers don't have a clue. And some sellers who have tons of knowledge and have sold depression glass for years and years, can make a mistake. (Guilty) It happens. Have you seen pieces of Sharon listed as Mayfair and vice versa? How about Patrician and Madrid? I see it all the time on okay. So know your pattern and just because it says it is something, make sure you study the pictures and decide for yourself.
WHAT TO EXPECT WHEN YOU GET YOUR GLASS
ABOUT DEPRESSION GLASS: Keep in mind, that Depression Glass was made in the very early 1900s typically between the 1920s and 30s. Some books attribute the status to items made into the 40s. It was mass produced for the masses. Made as afordable as possible so every person could afford it. And that would not have been easy during the depression years of the 30s. Most depression glass (though it varies from pattern to patter) was made very cheaply. It was not intended to be saved for generations or collected 60 to 90 years later. Quality control was week at best. Items routinely passed into the market with what are known as factory flaws.Personally, I think if depression glass was made in this same fashion today, it would never make it onto store shelves. Too many flaws right from the factory. Today's collectors recognize these as charactoristics, not flaws. Here are some of the Charactoristics you should expect to find.
STRAW MARKS OR MOLD MARKS: These are typically seen as what at first appears to be a deep scratch or crack in the glass, but upon closer inspection, you realize it is an impressed line in the glass that was from making. It is easy to tell. It is not extremely deep, does not penetrate through the glass. Is on one side of the glass. Typically irregular in shape. Varies from piece to piece. Most sellers will mention straw marks so you know because they are one of the more readily seen charactoristics and depending on location and size, you may choose to pass on a piece with too strong a mold mark or straw mark.
FLASH OVER: If you look carefully at some depression glass, you will see what is known as flash over. It is typically seen as sharp edges on plates or foot rims of other pieces, around handles. It is where glass slipped through the mold when the piece was made. It formed an extremely tiny very thin protrusion of glass where it slipped through. It is more gemonly felt than seen unless using a magnifying glass. It simply feels sharp. The key to this characteristic that separates it from actual flaws is that it protrudes.
BUBBLES: Bubbles are far less gemon in todays modern glass, but in the old days, bubbles were quite gemon. Much depression glass will have bubbles. Again, this is a charactoristic that should be expected. When does a bubble begee a flaw? When it touches the surface and either protrudes up from the surface, or breaks the surface. These should be disclosed by sellers. These are still good usable items, depending on the size of the bubble and location.
COLOR: There will be some color variation to depression glass of the same pattern and maker. Glass is made using specific formulas. So much of this and that. Most formulas are made in batches and considering that most glass patterns weremade for anywhere from 2 to 40 years, it is gemon for the formulas to have been made ever so slightly different causing a slightly different hue. Instead of 4 pounds of this, maybe they got 4.03 pounds. Maybe the supplier changed something in their supplies. Most will blend with little if any significant difference. If you find a major difference, odds are you may have either a repro or an oddity.
FLAWS
Like anything glass, you are bound to find lots of after market flaws added to your glassware. Does a flaw make an item less usefull or less valuable? Sometimes and Yes. Depending on the flaw, many items are still as usable as the day they were made. They do tend to make the items less valuable, but not always. There are terms associated with flaws that are sometimes fairly self explanatory and other times not easily understood by the experienced collector or dealer. There seems to be a general consensous to the terminology used, but I have never actually found any official definition of the terms. Here are types of flaws to be aware of aand how we describe them
FLEABITES or FLEA BITES: Often grossly overused. This term is meant to mean a tiny nick on the glass (typically found on rims) about the size of a flea's bite. Too small to reasonablly measure. You can usually feel these with your fingernail or find them with a magnifying glass, though some with good eyesight will see them more readily than others. They are the type thing that you will not notice when in use or display.
FLAKES: A flake is a sliver shaped chip that runs with the surface. It does not protrude down into the glass very deeply at all. Mostly a small surface issue. Often found on foot rims, rims of plates, etc. Depending on the location or size, these can have an affect on value. They quite often do not affect the shape of the rim. That is to say, if you look down at a plate sitting on a table that has a rim flake, typically it will not affect the roundness of the plate.
CHIPS: Chips are just that. Be they flakes that got deep into the glass andchanged the shape of the rims or more gemonly, a chip that goes clean through the item. You see these on rims of glasses, rims of plates and pretty much any other piece. They change the shape of the item so the glass is chipped out from from to back or top to bottom. Much more easily seen. These will always affect the value of an item and should always be disclosed.
CRACKS: When dealing with porcelain, cracks are more gemon and can sometimes be stopped in their tracks or repaired to some degree. When dealing with glass, cracks are killers. At least for me. Unless that item is so extremely rare as to warrant keeping it, a crack around here goes into the trash can or out to someone looking for scrap glass for various art projects. I would regemend the same to you.
STRESS LINES: Stress lines are cracks distant cousins. They appear as stress marks on the surface of the glass. These are found around handles, spouts, and especially around holes where items are bolted together as in the case of the tiered tidbit trays. They are typically very fine lines, sometimes singular, sometimes in little groupings. Think of them as the crows feet that appear around your eyes as you get a few years older. They are typically caused by the stress to the glass in the making process but can be made from years of use too. Be sure you know what you are looking at and exactly what kind of stress mark. If they are the fine lines extremely short, and just barely visible, not so bad. If they are through the glass, then they are a crack, not just a stress line anymore.
SCRATCHES: There are various degress of scratches. Most of this stuff has been used for years. Knives and forks ran their course over them for years. You will be surprized at how many piece show relatively little wear from use. Some pieces will be highly scratched though. There is no way to remove scratches without buffing and that may or may not help depending on the situation and can be costly. Most plates will show some scratches, though they are often seen only if you hold them to the light and teeter them back and forth. That should not be an issueto you. If it is, then select a brand new patter. Depression glass is not for you. If you think you have plates that don't have some sort of scratches on them, then you are likely either mistaken or extremely lucky.
GLASS SICKNESS: This is most gemonly found on shakers and cruets, though it can be found on other items like decanters. It gees from a couple sources. Salt shakers are especially prone. Salt eats at the inside of the shaker. It would have been ideal if the salt were removed after each use, but face it. It sat on the table between uses. As the salt scratched at the surface, it begees cloudy and looks sick. You cannot get it out. You can use various acids, sometimes false teeth cleaner can help. You can have it tumbled by a professional. That is your best hope, but most likely it will either not clean up, or if it does, it will retain quickly. Cruets and decanters get the same problems, but generally from moisture trapped inside. They get washed, drip dry (how you going to get a drying towel inside a cruet?) and then the stopper goes on and the remaining moisture is trapped to evaporate within the glass leaving deposits. If you are furtunate enough to have shakers that are not sick, empty them after every use. If you have a cruet or decanter without stains, dry it by placing a hose from an aquarium pump inside it and pumping air in it with the stopper off. That will preserve it in the pristine condition.
CARING FOR YOUR DEPRESSION GLASS
Personally I regemend hand washing your depression glass with a mild detergent and soft wash cloth. I know many people who use dishwashers, but I just personally would not put it in the dishwasher. If you do, use the gentle cycle if you have one. And as gemon sense will tell you, don't submerge cold glass into hot water or vice versa. I never use my depression glass in a microwave, mostly because I have not read any reports on the effects on the glass. I would assume it to be safe, but why put any valable collectible in the microwave? Empty shakers after each use. Dry cruets and decanters with an air hose from an aquarium pump and pump air inside the cruet or decanter until dry.
Storeyour glasswarewisely. I place a styrofoam plate between each of my plates. Saucers I generally have to use paper or plastic plates because I cannot find the Styrofoam in that size. I place papertowels between my cups in the cupboards if theyare to be stacked. They are glass. Treat them with respect and they will last another 100 years. Abuse them and they will go to pieces.
REPAIRS
Can damaged glass be repaired? Possibly. It depends on the item, the damage and the repairer. Light scratches can sometimes be buffed out. I generally don't regemend it becuase years of experience has taught us that if you buff it out, it begees even more suseptible to new scratches. Fleabites or very small chips can sometimes be ground out or polished. This is gemon to stemware and tumblers. They are delicate items and often found themselves with tiny nicks or fleabites. An experienced expert can often polish a rim and get rid of the fleabites though they will loose a certain number in the process. If you are going to grind or buff glass, you are going to have some breakage. I don't have the hand for it. It takes a steady hand and keen eyesight. If it works, the end results are you have your glass repaired. However, the original rim is no longer there. They typically have to polish all around the rim to keep it uniform in height. You don't want one side sagging lower. This changes the height maybe 1/8 of an inch. Hardly noticable unless sitting side by side with anoriginal piece. But it will have an effect on the value should you ever decide to sell it.
Chips and flakes are nearly impossible to repair. There are new resins and epoxies that have been used by some to fill in small chips, but they are almost always distinguishable with the naked eye and always distinguishable to the expert. Is it worth it? Likely in todays day and age, you can find a replacement just as cheaply as a repair. Unless it is the rare item.
WHAT'S WRONG WITH REPRODUCTIONS GLASSWARE?
So you have a collection but need more pieces. You can buy that hard to find piece on the Internet, but they want $300 for it. Or you can get that look alike reproduction for $20. Seems like the smarter move, unless you want quality and a matching piece. The repro is not going to match in color and likely not in size. The pattern is going to be weak and not match exactly. It is valuless in a collection and if you sell off your collection in the future, make sure you pull any repros out of the collection first. If a person knows their glass, they will spot it instantly and that leads them to immediately begee suspicious of the entire set. You have spent a good amount of money gathering your prized collection. Do you really want a reproduction that someone made for the sheer purpuse of fooling people and ripping them off? Watch out, they run rampant on okay and everywhere. Know your glass. Invest in books. They tell you what is known to be reproduced and how to tell them from the authentic. REPRODUCTIONS HAVE NO VALUE IN AN AUTHENTIC COLLECTION OF DEPRESSION GLASS.
RE-ISSUES: Re-issues are items that were made by a gepany, then years later re-issued usually by the same gepany. Federal Glass did it with their Madrid Pattern. You can tell it from the original because it was marked with a 76 on the underside, provided someone has not buffed the numbers away. The 76 refers to the year 1976 when it was made. Indiana Glass did it with their Pyramid pattern. It was re-issued in the 80s by Tiara, a division of Indiana Glass. It was not made in the orignal colors so it is easy to tell. Re-issued glass is almost always done in honesty and issued with tell tale signs to distinguish it from the vintage, be it color or numbers or some other marking. There is nothing wrong with re-issues, but they are not depression glass. Just depression glass patterns.
IS IT RARE OR FAKE?
So you just found a piece of your pattern at a garage sale and cannot find any word on it in your books. Is it rare or a fake? This can be difficult for the beginner to determine. Gene Florence has written several books on the Rare Treasuresof the Depression Glass Era. They would be well worth your time to check out at the local library or pick up a copy on okay or local books store.
Many authors write about the morgue in their books. The morgue is a place in the glass factories where pieces were stored that were experimental, never produced for the markets. Some of these items found their way onto the streets and into collections. Most are in museums. We just sold a delphite blue Colony water Goblet. Well documented as an experimental piece. Some exist in chocolate too. Very hard to find. Our goblet brought $175. We currently have a Moonstone bowl and underplate listed. One piece is shown in one of Gene Florence's books, but as far as we have been able to tell, the other piece has never been shown to exist other than the one we have. We have had many such pieces over the years. We are fortunate to live in near where much of the glass and pottery was made and have purchased from factory workers, and obtained items from the factory presidents estates too. Some extremely rare pieces have passed through our hands right here on okay. More will be found by us an others and possibly by you. Another good source to determine if you have found a treasure of a fake is the Internet. There are many good sites (as well as books) on fake items. Most collector societies post photos of fakes and repros. They can be seen for free as the colloctor associations wish to help you know a fake from a real item. Finally search okay and search the Internet. If you item is fake, it won't take long to find many of them showing up on okay and the net. Some are honestly thought to be real by less experienced dealers. A Fostoria Egg Plate sold on okay recently for an outragesous sum. It wasn't Fostoria. Fostoria never made that pattern. It was misrepresented by the seller either by honest mistake or by crookedness. A simple look around okay would have alerted the seller to their error and alerted the buyer not to bid since the item was readily available on okay for the low price of $4.99 through other sellers who correctly identified it.
BEST ADVISE
The best advice to adhere to regardless of what you collect, is to find a dealer you trust. An experienced dealer who knows their stuff and is honest. We sell hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of depression glass each year and hope you will consider us, but whomever you choose to do business with, make sure they have a good reputation. Check their feedback. Understand that any seller is going to have some bad feedback. It is nearly impossible not to as people are people and as much as there are some unreasonable crooked sellers out there, there are just as many unreasonable crooked buyers. Most sellers are very honest. Some are both honest and know what they are talking about. Some don't have a clue. Sure, take a chance. There are sellers who list things and tell you right up front they don't know what they have. I have bought lots off okay from inexperienced sellers who don't even try to determine a maker or pattern. Bought for pennies on the dollar. But if you routinely run into problems with a seller, go elsewhere. If you slam a door on your hand, you quickly learn not to do it again. Why not learn the same lesson. If you get burned and a seller does not want to make things right, go elsewhere. If you get a great item for a good reasonable price, even if you have to pay a little more, then its worth it. There is a reason the price is slightly higher, more buyers are bidding it up because they know the seller is trustworthy. Spending a tiny bit more for the peace of mind is much better than getting a deal that turns out to be fake or have hidden damages.
AND ASK QUESTIONS! DEALERS ARE MORE THAN HAPPY TO HELP AND ANSWER QUESTIONS.
NOW GO SHOPPING
Aftermarket Steering Wheels, Hubs and Quick Releases
Halo Halos Angel eye eyes BMW E36 E46 E38 E39 Accord Civic Tahoe F150 Yukon Suburban Camaro S10 Dodge Ram Scion Tc Eclipse GMC Chevy C10 HID Ranger Silverado AUDI A4 DENALI Tagea SIERRA Cavalier Blazer Astro Maxima JETTA Corner Side Marker LED Euro JDM Altezza Bulbs MOMO APC NRG Megan Tekniq WilwoodThere are a number of aftermarket Quick Release Adapters, Hubs and Steering Wheels on the market today. So it can be very confusing on what kind of setup or type of kits you may want on your vehicle. So this Guide was made to clear up some of those confusing aspects when figuring out which products you should purchase for your specific needs.First and for most, you will need to know what the different parts and what there purposes are before purchasing any particular item. Like I said in the beginning, there are a number of different products and brands out on the market today so this guide may or may not pertain to some of the products available on the market. So please be aware of this fact. The items I will be writing about are some of the most popular aftermarket items on okay when pertaining to steering wheels, quick release adapters and hubs. So let Start.HubAn example of a Hub, different brand make different looking hubs, but this is just an example of what one looks like.A hub is needed no matter if you want a quick release or not. A hub is the piece that connects directly to your vehicles steering wheel column. There's a number of brands that make hubs, so just make sure what ever brand to decide to purchase makes one for your vehicle specifically. There is no such thing as a "Universal" Hub, so don't be fooled. Some brands may make a hub that will fit on specific car manufactures, like certain Honda's or for certain Ford's. But a hub for a Honda will not fit on a Ford or vise versa. So make sure the hub you purchase is for your specific vehicle.*Note: Some Hub brands on the market will only work with certain brand quick release adapters and or steering wheel. Meaning if you purchase a "ACME" brand hub, it may only work with an "ACME" brand quick release and or steering wheel. So please do your research before purchasing.Aftermarket Steering WheelAftermarket Steering wheels vary as well. Everything from wheel diameter, color, shape and extra gizmos. But the main feature you must consider is the mounting plate/ bolt pattern. They gee mainly in 5 or 6 bolt patterns. Again, different brands and models will vary. The bolt pattern on the steering wheel must match your Hub or Quick Release adapters.Quick Release Adapter (*Optional Part)*Note: A Hub and Steering will work without a quick release adapter.Depending on the brand and model, design will vary but this is just an example of one.In general terms a quick release adapter is usually what is found in between the hub and steering wheel. Allowing the user to quickly remove his or her Steering wheel directly from its steering column. Nascar Racers use quick release adapters for the simple reason of space, they remove the steering wheel, which allows more room for the driver to get in and out of the car. But for your average car owner, quick release adapters are mainly used for style and looks, because it allows you to use Aftermarket Steering wheels. But it also has a very practical everyday use as well, mainly for security purposes. Instead of using a "club" type security tool, which can easily be bypass. Just take the steering wheel off and nobody will be able to drive off in your car. So these are the type of things to consider when deciding if a quick release adapter is right for you. The bolt pattern is also important when considering purchase.We hope you find this guide helpful.MOTORBLVD
Banks High Ram Dodge Cummins 5.9L Diesel - Big Power
Speed House is THE source for Diesel, auto, motorcycle, RV, and Marine! We can Sell this
to you for SIGNIFICANTLY LESS if you buy direct so that we don't have
to charge you for the ridiculous okay fees. eMail us at okay@ShopSpeedHouse.ge for details and a quote.Banks High Ram- Part #42726 - Dodge Cummins 5.9L - 2003-2007- Part #42721 - Dodge Cummins 5.9L - 1998-2002 (Updated Part covers more years)- Part #42720 - Dodge Cummins 5.9L - 1998-2000 (discontinued, replaced by 42721) Banks High Ram with Boost Tube- Part #42727 - Dodge Cummins 5.9L - 2003-2007- Part #42722 - Dodge Cummins 5.9L - 1998-2002This is a fundamental part of your performance Dodge Cummins intake system!The Banks High Ram improves airflow from the intercooler. The High-Ram raises boost without increasing backpressure at the turbine. The Banks High Ram Intake delivers up to a 64% reduction in pressure loss! This results in improved acceleration and better fuel economy! Currently this is the best geponent available for Dodge Cummins Diesels for this application and intended use.RESULTS - Response: More boost means better response.Efficiency: Increased boost with all else equal means more efficiency.Economy: Increased efficiency means better fuel economy!APPLICATION(s) -Year(s): 2003-2007, 2001-2002, 1998-2000Make: Dodge CumminsModel: 5.9LCondition: NEW, UNUSED, in ORIGINAL SEALED BOXPart #'s: 42726, 42721, 42720Hardware: IncludedShipping: FREE in Continental United States; $10 to ALASKA and HAWAII; No shipping to APO's, FPO's, or P.O. BoxesShipped Via: FedEx Ground to gemercial or FedEx Home to ResidenceInternational Shipping: NOT AVAILABLEStock: In Stock and Ready to Ship!PartsDiscounter specializes in providing aftermarket products to the Diesel Truck, Gas Truck, SUV, Automotive, Motorcycle, 4x4, Off-Road, RV, and Marine industries. Racing is in our blood and we support and supply almost every racing venue in the United States and many in other countries as well including the Baja 1000 and Paris-Dakar racers!See okay seller Speed House for Your BEST Price!
to you for SIGNIFICANTLY LESS if you buy direct so that we don't have
to charge you for the ridiculous okay fees. eMail us at okay@ShopSpeedHouse.ge for details and a quote.Banks High Ram- Part #42726 - Dodge Cummins 5.9L - 2003-2007- Part #42721 - Dodge Cummins 5.9L - 1998-2002 (Updated Part covers more years)- Part #42720 - Dodge Cummins 5.9L - 1998-2000 (discontinued, replaced by 42721) Banks High Ram with Boost Tube- Part #42727 - Dodge Cummins 5.9L - 2003-2007- Part #42722 - Dodge Cummins 5.9L - 1998-2002This is a fundamental part of your performance Dodge Cummins intake system!The Banks High Ram improves airflow from the intercooler. The High-Ram raises boost without increasing backpressure at the turbine. The Banks High Ram Intake delivers up to a 64% reduction in pressure loss! This results in improved acceleration and better fuel economy! Currently this is the best geponent available for Dodge Cummins Diesels for this application and intended use.RESULTS - Response: More boost means better response.Efficiency: Increased boost with all else equal means more efficiency.Economy: Increased efficiency means better fuel economy!APPLICATION(s) -Year(s): 2003-2007, 2001-2002, 1998-2000Make: Dodge CumminsModel: 5.9LCondition: NEW, UNUSED, in ORIGINAL SEALED BOXPart #'s: 42726, 42721, 42720Hardware: IncludedShipping: FREE in Continental United States; $10 to ALASKA and HAWAII; No shipping to APO's, FPO's, or P.O. BoxesShipped Via: FedEx Ground to gemercial or FedEx Home to ResidenceInternational Shipping: NOT AVAILABLEStock: In Stock and Ready to Ship!PartsDiscounter specializes in providing aftermarket products to the Diesel Truck, Gas Truck, SUV, Automotive, Motorcycle, 4x4, Off-Road, RV, and Marine industries. Racing is in our blood and we support and supply almost every racing venue in the United States and many in other countries as well including the Baja 1000 and Paris-Dakar racers!See okay seller Speed House for Your BEST Price!
s Power Seller - Do you have what it takes? Read on
May all your Purchasers be Bargains and all your
Sales be Monsterousssssss!okay Powerseller
- Do you have what it takes?Power sellers get many advantages and discounts from
okay, so begeing and maintaining Power Seller status is considered important by
many people. There is far more to being a good Power Seller than just following the
rules. In this Study we will show you some of the tricks we have found
to begee an acgeplished Power Seller.Understanding Power Seller Status1. Understand Power Seller Tiers.
*There are several tiers of Power Seller, and
your benefits vary depending on your tier. The tier you fall in is determined by
consistent sales volume over a period of months.
Sales be Monsterousssssss!okay Powerseller
- Do you have what it takes?Power sellers get many advantages and discounts from
okay, so begeing and maintaining Power Seller status is considered important by
many people. There is far more to being a good Power Seller than just following the
rules. In this Study we will show you some of the tricks we have found
to begee an acgeplished Power Seller.Understanding Power Seller Status1. Understand Power Seller Tiers.
*There are several tiers of Power Seller, and
your benefits vary depending on your tier. The tier you fall in is determined by
consistent sales volume over a period of months.
STENCIL THE EZ WAY
I Hope You WIll Find This Guide Helpful. I have 20 years in The Sign Stenciling Business, So This guide Is Designed From Years Of Experiences Of Tried And True Methods.
I first prepare myitem to stencil on, clean your surface really good and lay your stencil down and align. I use small pieces of painters masking tape to hold the stencil in place. I then prepare my paint in a styrofoam plate ( about a quarter size amount). I use cosmetic wedges found in the cosmetic section of most stores. I seperate them in to individual wedges, I take the fat end of the wedge and lightly dip it into the puddleof paint ( REMEMBER NOT TO MUCH ) and in a sponcing motion on a paper towel, remove any excess paint, giving it almost a dry brush effect. I then begin to sponce my wedge over the stencil covering any
I first prepare myitem to stencil on, clean your surface really good and lay your stencil down and align. I use small pieces of painters masking tape to hold the stencil in place. I then prepare my paint in a styrofoam plate ( about a quarter size amount). I use cosmetic wedges found in the cosmetic section of most stores. I seperate them in to individual wedges, I take the fat end of the wedge and lightly dip it into the puddleof paint ( REMEMBER NOT TO MUCH ) and in a sponcing motion on a paper towel, remove any excess paint, giving it almost a dry brush effect. I then begin to sponce my wedge over the stencil covering any
Easy Listing on s with GarageSale 5.0.3 Macintosh
* Selling on okay these days is more easythan ever, and programs like Garage Sale 5.0.3for the Mac give you a great opportunity toindividualize your listings and allow you to stand out in a geetitive market!
* Ok, the truth is, I was a Mac user way back in the early 80s. In fact, I bought and used every kind of geputer they made back then. I switched over to the PC only when I got married and decided there were more games for kids on the PC. This is probably still true today. I recently switched most of my posting within the last year to using a Macbook. I own and registered both iSale and GarageSale, and have found uses for them both. Before I bought them, I read all the reviews I could find, and also took into consideration the pros and cons about these programs. I realize that a software program is a work in progress, and since these are the two main ones to use on the Mac, they won't be far behind each other. At this time, both programs will have to upgrade to take advantage of all the changes that okay has made on their platform this year. These changes do not keep the programs from performing. Working with these programs was not gepletely smooth, and there was some learning time and experimentation that has gone into understanding how to use them. Also, in regards to the words "great templates" and the words "easy to use", one must not pay too much attention to this kind of advertising. From my experience, it could take some art ability and layout experience to make such features work well.( 11/8/08 - GarageSale has already updated their program to work with the changes on okay, and the templates also look good in the new future 800 pixel format! GarageSale definitey has my vote for "Easy to Use" and templates that can enhance your listing.)
* Lets look at GarageSale from a practical point of view. The first step in using this program beyond installation, is setting up the preferences. In the first column under GarageSale, is the Preferences. You are asked to input information about your site and location.. There are 16 choices of countries to choose from. Main countries include USA, Canada, United Kingdom, Germany and Australia. These were the most important to me, you will have to check their website for a current list of countries supported. This was important for my choice to use this software. The second Preference area is your predefined information for your template, including the name of the template you want to use. If you are selling different items, you may want to change the templates you are using as you work. The next area is what image server you are using. The next area is accounts. This program allows you to list on different accounts. Here you can post information about your account name, paypal address,and Skype ID, then you must authorize this with okay. This software supports having a store, auction listings, and fixed price. At this time you can enter your shipping information, and your paypal information. The next box in Preferences simply asks you how often you want to update. You are allowed to track your auctions, and can enter the refresh rate of this information. The last box is for defining Image Server options. This I never changed from the way it came in the program. It allows you to use your Built-in iSight camera for taking photos or movies of your merchandise. I believe you can also use other imput devices if you want to use this feature. This finishes setting up the preferences, an important 1st step. OK, I am ready to make my first template and try to post an item. Lets see how easy that is. *The second drop down menu in GarageSale is the "File" menu. The first item is New Template. There are a number of other options also of Importing and Exporting templates, Importing from the Delicious Library, from a Turbo Lister file, from eLister, or directly from okay. What I was hoping this program would do for me was to be able to grab my geputer, take a photo, input that photo, then get it into an ad that is running on okay quicky. OK, here we go. I simply choose New template. We are now working in a Mac style window with pictures of the templates across the top and a slider bar, and the template showing on the bottom. There are two choices for viewing the template. The Preview mode, and the Editor mode. I am in the preview mode at the moment, and a great feature for this program is I can edit right in the preview of how it is going to look on okay. OK, just a note here. Depending on the browser and monitor resolution your customer is using, some templates may not look the same once they are posted on okay. This mostly relates to how many photos you are using and how they are arranged in your listing. This is something you need to experiment with when listing with this program. Every template allows you to arrange the text and photos in your listing. They have something called a "hover gallery", where several photos are shown together, and as you run the mouse arrow over the thumbnail, the photo expands.As I use this program more, I am finding the templates quite useful, and am starting to use more of them that I did not consider before. The question in my mind always is, do my listings look good, or, did I use the appropriate template for what I am selling. I think overall, this software offers you a good set of templates. Along with the program they also offer you a GarageSale template utility, allowing you to alter the HTML code of their templates, a valuable resource for such a program. Most of the time, I just edit in the preview mode of my listing. In the editor mode, this is where you can insert your photos, or type in HTML code if you know it. You can also choose the template you want to use by name, and the positioning of your images. Each template offers you a different number of choices, to make sure your photos will look good using that template. When you add images, you can take them from iPhoto, from your camera, from an image file, a URL, or add an iSight image. You can also add text blocks if you need them in this mode. By clicking on the Inspector button, it allows you to choose the category, enhancements, auction or store listing, payment options, your basic hits counter, and payment instructions. With the latest version, you can insert YouTube Videos into your listing,This is a great feature for items that need to be seen in 3-D. In total, there are 140 listing designs, a way to schedule your listings, and the GarageSale site will allow you to store a certain number of photos. This program also offers a image editor,or you can use iPhoto, and those will import directly into this program. As you can see, it is not hard to gepose and post an auction. I think this program is easy to use and a great bargain. Its easy to get a listing up, easy to configure the program, andmy listings look good with little effort. Its well worth the money and takes advantage of the graphic capabilities of the Mac.I have given you the basics of what this program does and how it does it. Current price is $34.99 for a single license, or $59.99 for a family license. It supports Mac OSX 10.4 or 10.5 - * iSale 5.21 - Just a note about this program since its a major gepetitor of GarageSale. I had problems setting up this program, and was able to send support emails back and forth to try to fix what was not working. In the end, they did not know what was not working, and said to email them if I had any more questions. There was no offer of money back. I later was able to get the program working on my own, and overall, its similar but does not give you the variety and value you get with GarageSale. It also will only post one auction at a time. They say they are not for power users, but I would not want to pay money for a program that has less capability then GarageSale. Just say "NO" to this program. It has won awards for its design, but at this time, GarageSale is plainly just better. They now have a scaled down version for only $25, but I think the version I bought if fine for anyboy using a Mac.
If you found my review useful or informative, please leave me a check in the box! I will later review any new versions this software and add to the review here.
Mygemgarden
* Ok, the truth is, I was a Mac user way back in the early 80s. In fact, I bought and used every kind of geputer they made back then. I switched over to the PC only when I got married and decided there were more games for kids on the PC. This is probably still true today. I recently switched most of my posting within the last year to using a Macbook. I own and registered both iSale and GarageSale, and have found uses for them both. Before I bought them, I read all the reviews I could find, and also took into consideration the pros and cons about these programs. I realize that a software program is a work in progress, and since these are the two main ones to use on the Mac, they won't be far behind each other. At this time, both programs will have to upgrade to take advantage of all the changes that okay has made on their platform this year. These changes do not keep the programs from performing. Working with these programs was not gepletely smooth, and there was some learning time and experimentation that has gone into understanding how to use them. Also, in regards to the words "great templates" and the words "easy to use", one must not pay too much attention to this kind of advertising. From my experience, it could take some art ability and layout experience to make such features work well.( 11/8/08 - GarageSale has already updated their program to work with the changes on okay, and the templates also look good in the new future 800 pixel format! GarageSale definitey has my vote for "Easy to Use" and templates that can enhance your listing.)
* Lets look at GarageSale from a practical point of view. The first step in using this program beyond installation, is setting up the preferences. In the first column under GarageSale, is the Preferences. You are asked to input information about your site and location.. There are 16 choices of countries to choose from. Main countries include USA, Canada, United Kingdom, Germany and Australia. These were the most important to me, you will have to check their website for a current list of countries supported. This was important for my choice to use this software. The second Preference area is your predefined information for your template, including the name of the template you want to use. If you are selling different items, you may want to change the templates you are using as you work. The next area is what image server you are using. The next area is accounts. This program allows you to list on different accounts. Here you can post information about your account name, paypal address,and Skype ID, then you must authorize this with okay. This software supports having a store, auction listings, and fixed price. At this time you can enter your shipping information, and your paypal information. The next box in Preferences simply asks you how often you want to update. You are allowed to track your auctions, and can enter the refresh rate of this information. The last box is for defining Image Server options. This I never changed from the way it came in the program. It allows you to use your Built-in iSight camera for taking photos or movies of your merchandise. I believe you can also use other imput devices if you want to use this feature. This finishes setting up the preferences, an important 1st step. OK, I am ready to make my first template and try to post an item. Lets see how easy that is. *The second drop down menu in GarageSale is the "File" menu. The first item is New Template. There are a number of other options also of Importing and Exporting templates, Importing from the Delicious Library, from a Turbo Lister file, from eLister, or directly from okay. What I was hoping this program would do for me was to be able to grab my geputer, take a photo, input that photo, then get it into an ad that is running on okay quicky. OK, here we go. I simply choose New template. We are now working in a Mac style window with pictures of the templates across the top and a slider bar, and the template showing on the bottom. There are two choices for viewing the template. The Preview mode, and the Editor mode. I am in the preview mode at the moment, and a great feature for this program is I can edit right in the preview of how it is going to look on okay. OK, just a note here. Depending on the browser and monitor resolution your customer is using, some templates may not look the same once they are posted on okay. This mostly relates to how many photos you are using and how they are arranged in your listing. This is something you need to experiment with when listing with this program. Every template allows you to arrange the text and photos in your listing. They have something called a "hover gallery", where several photos are shown together, and as you run the mouse arrow over the thumbnail, the photo expands.As I use this program more, I am finding the templates quite useful, and am starting to use more of them that I did not consider before. The question in my mind always is, do my listings look good, or, did I use the appropriate template for what I am selling. I think overall, this software offers you a good set of templates. Along with the program they also offer you a GarageSale template utility, allowing you to alter the HTML code of their templates, a valuable resource for such a program. Most of the time, I just edit in the preview mode of my listing. In the editor mode, this is where you can insert your photos, or type in HTML code if you know it. You can also choose the template you want to use by name, and the positioning of your images. Each template offers you a different number of choices, to make sure your photos will look good using that template. When you add images, you can take them from iPhoto, from your camera, from an image file, a URL, or add an iSight image. You can also add text blocks if you need them in this mode. By clicking on the Inspector button, it allows you to choose the category, enhancements, auction or store listing, payment options, your basic hits counter, and payment instructions. With the latest version, you can insert YouTube Videos into your listing,This is a great feature for items that need to be seen in 3-D. In total, there are 140 listing designs, a way to schedule your listings, and the GarageSale site will allow you to store a certain number of photos. This program also offers a image editor,or you can use iPhoto, and those will import directly into this program. As you can see, it is not hard to gepose and post an auction. I think this program is easy to use and a great bargain. Its easy to get a listing up, easy to configure the program, andmy listings look good with little effort. Its well worth the money and takes advantage of the graphic capabilities of the Mac.I have given you the basics of what this program does and how it does it. Current price is $34.99 for a single license, or $59.99 for a family license. It supports Mac OSX 10.4 or 10.5 - * iSale 5.21 - Just a note about this program since its a major gepetitor of GarageSale. I had problems setting up this program, and was able to send support emails back and forth to try to fix what was not working. In the end, they did not know what was not working, and said to email them if I had any more questions. There was no offer of money back. I later was able to get the program working on my own, and overall, its similar but does not give you the variety and value you get with GarageSale. It also will only post one auction at a time. They say they are not for power users, but I would not want to pay money for a program that has less capability then GarageSale. Just say "NO" to this program. It has won awards for its design, but at this time, GarageSale is plainly just better. They now have a scaled down version for only $25, but I think the version I bought if fine for anyboy using a Mac.
If you found my review useful or informative, please leave me a check in the box! I will later review any new versions this software and add to the review here.
Mygemgarden
SAVE GAS!!! Increase Performance AND Economy / MPG!
Speed House okay Store
Pleas Vote YES if you find this guide at all helpful.NEW AND UNUSED: Bully Dog Triple Dog E3 Gas Downloader - Part #40506We can Sell this
to you for SIGNIFICANTLY LESS if you buy direct so that we don't have
to charge you for the ridiculous okay fees. eMail us at okay@ShopSpeedHosue.ge for details and a quote.
OVER 50 DIFFERENT VEHICLES SUPPORTED!
This is a fundamental part in making your Gas Truck PERFORM while IMPROVING ECONOMY!All this at an unbelievable price that makes this product pay for itself very quickly!
The Bully Dog Triple Dog E3 Gas Downloader is designed to provide added performance and economy. Everything that is packed into this product, from the engine tuning to the speed limiter function is designed to help users achieve better fuel economy and usable performance gains. This product was also designed to acgemodate a lower price point, the price has been significantly reduced from the regular Triple Dog Product line. The Triple Dog E3 carries two engine tunes to acgemodate regular gasoline powered pickups and SUVs and to acgemodate flex fuel vehicles running E85.
TUNING:
Stock: Choosing the Stock engine tune will result in no change to engine horsepower output. All other downloader features can still be accessed if the Stock engine tune is chosen.
Economy: This engine tune is regemended for use with 85 or 87 octane gasoline. This tune can be used for everyday driving and towing. Dynamometer testing results have shown a 10-12hp increase in rear wheel horsepower.
Flex Fuel: This engine tune is regemended for use with E85. This tune should only be used on Flex Fuel approved vehicles running flex fuel.
FEATURES:
Speed Limiter
Calibrate OEM Speedometer
Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Triple Dog E3 will work on over 50 different vehicle applications including Dodge, Ford, Ford Mustang, Chevy/GMC, and Nissan! Please visit the Bully Dog website for specific details: bullydog.ge
RESULTS:
Power: More power.
Response: Better throttle response.
Efficiency: Increased efficiency.
Economy: Better fuel economy - up to 5 MPG!!!
APPLICATIONS:
Chevy/GMC - Pickups and SUV's - '99-'08 - 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L, 6.2L, and 8.1L
Dodge - Ram - '03-'08 - 5.7L Hemi
Ford - F150, F250, F350 - '04-'08 - 4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L
Ford Mustang GT - '05-'08 - 4.6L V8
Nissan - Titan and Armada - '05-'07 - 5.6L
DETAILS:
Condition: NEW, UNUSED, in ORIGINAL SEALED BOX
Part #: 40506
Other Models Available: Bully Dog Triple Dog Gas Downloader (part #40510) emphasizes PERFORMANCE!
Shipping: FREE in United States; No shipping to APO's, FPO's, or P.O. Boxes
Shipped Via: FedEx Ground to gemercial or FedEx Home to Residence
International Shipping: NOT AVAIALABLE
Stock: In Stock and Ready to Ship!
Email us if you have any questions: okay@ShopSpeedHouse.ge
Pleas Vote YES if you found this guide at all helpful.
Speed House okay Store
Pleas Vote YES if you find this guide at all helpful.NEW AND UNUSED: Bully Dog Triple Dog E3 Gas Downloader - Part #40506We can Sell this
to you for SIGNIFICANTLY LESS if you buy direct so that we don't have
to charge you for the ridiculous okay fees. eMail us at okay@ShopSpeedHosue.ge for details and a quote.
OVER 50 DIFFERENT VEHICLES SUPPORTED!
This is a fundamental part in making your Gas Truck PERFORM while IMPROVING ECONOMY!All this at an unbelievable price that makes this product pay for itself very quickly!
The Bully Dog Triple Dog E3 Gas Downloader is designed to provide added performance and economy. Everything that is packed into this product, from the engine tuning to the speed limiter function is designed to help users achieve better fuel economy and usable performance gains. This product was also designed to acgemodate a lower price point, the price has been significantly reduced from the regular Triple Dog Product line. The Triple Dog E3 carries two engine tunes to acgemodate regular gasoline powered pickups and SUVs and to acgemodate flex fuel vehicles running E85.
TUNING:
Stock: Choosing the Stock engine tune will result in no change to engine horsepower output. All other downloader features can still be accessed if the Stock engine tune is chosen.
Economy: This engine tune is regemended for use with 85 or 87 octane gasoline. This tune can be used for everyday driving and towing. Dynamometer testing results have shown a 10-12hp increase in rear wheel horsepower.
Flex Fuel: This engine tune is regemended for use with E85. This tune should only be used on Flex Fuel approved vehicles running flex fuel.
FEATURES:
Speed Limiter
Calibrate OEM Speedometer
Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Triple Dog E3 will work on over 50 different vehicle applications including Dodge, Ford, Ford Mustang, Chevy/GMC, and Nissan! Please visit the Bully Dog website for specific details: bullydog.ge
RESULTS:
Power: More power.
Response: Better throttle response.
Efficiency: Increased efficiency.
Economy: Better fuel economy - up to 5 MPG!!!
APPLICATIONS:
Chevy/GMC - Pickups and SUV's - '99-'08 - 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L, 6.2L, and 8.1L
Dodge - Ram - '03-'08 - 5.7L Hemi
Ford - F150, F250, F350 - '04-'08 - 4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L
Ford Mustang GT - '05-'08 - 4.6L V8
Nissan - Titan and Armada - '05-'07 - 5.6L
DETAILS:
Condition: NEW, UNUSED, in ORIGINAL SEALED BOX
Part #: 40506
Other Models Available: Bully Dog Triple Dog Gas Downloader (part #40510) emphasizes PERFORMANCE!
Shipping: FREE in United States; No shipping to APO's, FPO's, or P.O. Boxes
Shipped Via: FedEx Ground to gemercial or FedEx Home to Residence
International Shipping: NOT AVAIALABLE
Stock: In Stock and Ready to Ship!
Email us if you have any questions: okay@ShopSpeedHouse.ge
Pleas Vote YES if you found this guide at all helpful.
Speed House okay Store
Purchasing w/ Money Order or Check on s after 10/08
Late in October, okay is making a change in what payment methods a seller may request in their listing. However, if a buyer requests to pay via money order or check, a seller may choose to accept that payment method.So if you prefer to pay via money order or check, please feel free to ask your seller if they will accept that method of payment. Be sure to ask the seller, before bidding or buying instead of after, if they will accept a check or money order for payment. Since it will be the sellers choice as to whether or not to accept money orders or check or other non Paypal methods of payment, please don't assume that they will accept such methods without asking.
Tiles. What is Crazing, why do so many get it wrong?
Crazing - is fine cracks in the glaze, sometimes one or two long ones but most often a fine web-like network akin to cracked ice or crazy paving. Crazing is not dirt or staining as is gemonly misunderstood nor is it due to intense heat and it is not always readily visible when it is perfectly clean. These errors are most unfortunately reproduced in many books including and most unfortunately Blanchett on page 62, Barnard has the accurate explanation of the reason on page 66 plate 55. Authors usually check their sources and refer to earlier publications, I wonder why this excellent book is oft ignored.
Crazing is a near inherent feature of high gloss tiles, only a few percent of one hundred year old tiles do not exhibit crazing, even today manufacturers of high gloss tiles offer no guarantee that glaze will not craze. Tiles that have not crazed will usually be brown or red clay bodied as the clay absorbs less moisture and expands less - the underlying cause of crazing is the expansion of the tile body when it absorbs moisture. Glaze is in effect a thin layer of glass on the surface of the tile which is impervious to moisture, the clay is porous and can absorb moisture, when it does it expands a little. The glaze can not expand and so cracks finely, this is crazing. Crazing in fireplace tiles is often more easily seen as there was no damp proof course beneath ground floor fireplaces in victorian and edwardian houses so providing a ready source of moisture and there was plentiful soot and smoke to get trapped in the fine cracks. Washstand tiles also craze due to humidity and often have soot in the crazing due to candle and gas lighting.
Crazing is a near inherent feature of high gloss tiles, only a few percent of one hundred year old tiles do not exhibit crazing, even today manufacturers of high gloss tiles offer no guarantee that glaze will not craze. Tiles that have not crazed will usually be brown or red clay bodied as the clay absorbs less moisture and expands less - the underlying cause of crazing is the expansion of the tile body when it absorbs moisture. Glaze is in effect a thin layer of glass on the surface of the tile which is impervious to moisture, the clay is porous and can absorb moisture, when it does it expands a little. The glaze can not expand and so cracks finely, this is crazing. Crazing in fireplace tiles is often more easily seen as there was no damp proof course beneath ground floor fireplaces in victorian and edwardian houses so providing a ready source of moisture and there was plentiful soot and smoke to get trapped in the fine cracks. Washstand tiles also craze due to humidity and often have soot in the crazing due to candle and gas lighting.
RV Delamination
If you are new to buying an RV, you will gee across this verbiage and no doubt see the effect it has on the sidewalls of an RV. Many "dealers" are passing badly delaminated RV's off at no reserve. Why? Because they buy them cheap and you simply don't know what to look for. They say things like "clean sides", "look at the shine" etc in their ads. But asking whether it has delamination should be one of your first questions to any seller and have them email that info to you, just in case you need it later. An RV that has it is worth far less than a well taken care of unit. I've also heard people say "de what?" Any RV'er KNOWS what it is!I'm not going to give a highly technical description about delamination. You can probably "google" it for more information. It is however, the separation of the material in the sidewalls and it's caused by leaks from the roof or windows, but most likely the windows. Many people do not have a shelter for their RV and so the caulking around the windows, vents and air conditioners(anything on the roof) can deteriorate and start a small leak. Once water gets inside the inner wall and the outer wall, it causes a separation which is evident by the waves in the sides of the RV. The sides should be straight. Class C RV's especially leak over the cab(all of them do eventually). So, when you look at a picture, look at the windows and follow it down, if you see waves, that's delam(delamination). It is cosmetic but it also means there was a leak at some point and the wall is weakened. It does result in many RV's being pawned off as "good units" when they are worth far less than the asking price. NADA doesn't figure delamination in the value estimates. Think about buying a house that has a sagging wall, who would want it?
THE 10 BEST
This guide is actually a continuation of the related guide I have here on okay entitled: ARE CELL PHONES DANGEROUS TO YOU
Identifying Syracuse China Patterns RARE Designs
Identifying Syracuse China Patterns RARE Designs
Syracuse Chinabegan operation in 1871 as Onondaga Pottery gepany (OPCO)
Syracuse Chinabegan operation in 1871 as Onondaga Pottery gepany (OPCO)
"What is an Indian Arrowhead, Atl-Atl Point or Knife?"
"The Bow and Arrow is merely one tool in the progression of ancient hunting technology."
The vast majority of the "points"thatare collected in North America are NOT arrowheads. They are atl-atl points or more gemonly knives. The term arrowhead isconsidered to be a misnomer when applied to most projectile points that are 2" or longer.
It seems that the atl-atl arrived in North America no later than 12,000 years ago and that the bow and arrow supplanted it no earlier than approximately 2,000 years ago.
An atl-atl dart flies at a velocity of approximately 90 mph. A 6ounce projectile (point foreshaft shaft fletching) has enough momentum to knock a 40 lb. animal gepletely off it's feet. These missiles can kill deer at 40 yds. and travelranges greater than 100 yds.
It's still being used today, too.
-*If you have found this guide helpful pleasecheck the box marked "yes" below.
Thank you and "Enjoy Collecting!"
The vast majority of the "points"thatare collected in North America are NOT arrowheads. They are atl-atl points or more gemonly knives. The term arrowhead isconsidered to be a misnomer when applied to most projectile points that are 2" or longer.
It seems that the atl-atl arrived in North America no later than 12,000 years ago and that the bow and arrow supplanted it no earlier than approximately 2,000 years ago.
An atl-atl dart flies at a velocity of approximately 90 mph. A 6ounce projectile (point foreshaft shaft fletching) has enough momentum to knock a 40 lb. animal gepletely off it's feet. These missiles can kill deer at 40 yds. and travelranges greater than 100 yds.
It's still being used today, too.
-*If you have found this guide helpful pleasecheck the box marked "yes" below.
Thank you and "Enjoy Collecting!"
Voodoo
With the spell dolls I sell in both WICCA RELATED ITEMS and VOODOO RELATED ITEMS I get asked this question alot, thought I'd write a short help-guide to answer for those that need to know. THANKS FOR VIEWING ! :0)
Wicca it would be more associated with negative energies / negative forces than actually called Black Magick....but for the majority of buyers out there it means the same thing to them and Voodoo and Wicca are similiar in MANY ways.
Yes, you can place a hex on someone who lives far away BUT it would require having something belonging to the person or at very least writting their name and attaching to the spell doll. The spell would be MUCH, MUCH stronger if the spell caster (doll owner) and the person hex is to be used on have a past or current connection, most DO or there would be little need for a hex on someone. The more recent the gemunication or meetings with this person, the more powerful and quick the spell will start to happen. All of my spell dolls have had a powerful spell placed on the doll during the creation process. All spell dolls gee with a hand-signed doll activation instruction scroll tied in cloth and a pearl-colored pin !
You MUST remain focused on controlling your surrounding energies and ALWAYS ask yourself if there is truely a need to take this route with the person you are angry with ?? Remember bad karama brings twice fold what you give unto others....this is true only if the person you are seeking revenge upon has NOT done you mental or physical harm in some way. You can bring revenge upon another twice fold in return if they have earned it through abuse to theyou (or the person activating the spell). You can bring far worse to mean spirited, cold-by-heart type of person that is naturally evil. It is ALWAYSgood to have a jinx remover spell or hex-blocker spell doll JUST incase you get a little carried away with your revenge!
I have over 500 Wicca
Wicca it would be more associated with negative energies / negative forces than actually called Black Magick....but for the majority of buyers out there it means the same thing to them and Voodoo and Wicca are similiar in MANY ways.
Yes, you can place a hex on someone who lives far away BUT it would require having something belonging to the person or at very least writting their name and attaching to the spell doll. The spell would be MUCH, MUCH stronger if the spell caster (doll owner) and the person hex is to be used on have a past or current connection, most DO or there would be little need for a hex on someone. The more recent the gemunication or meetings with this person, the more powerful and quick the spell will start to happen. All of my spell dolls have had a powerful spell placed on the doll during the creation process. All spell dolls gee with a hand-signed doll activation instruction scroll tied in cloth and a pearl-colored pin !
You MUST remain focused on controlling your surrounding energies and ALWAYS ask yourself if there is truely a need to take this route with the person you are angry with ?? Remember bad karama brings twice fold what you give unto others....this is true only if the person you are seeking revenge upon has NOT done you mental or physical harm in some way. You can bring revenge upon another twice fold in return if they have earned it through abuse to theyou (or the person activating the spell). You can bring far worse to mean spirited, cold-by-heart type of person that is naturally evil. It is ALWAYSgood to have a jinx remover spell or hex-blocker spell doll JUST incase you get a little carried away with your revenge!
I have over 500 Wicca
CB Watt Meters on HF
Most CB watt meters will not work on the HF ham bands. CB watt meters were designed to work from 25 to 30 MHz especially those from the 1970s So be sure to check up on the specs before you bid. Don't just take someone's word. Many people who buy such equipment from estate sales consider CB and Ham as the same, not knowing the difference.
Stuffed Artichokes (An Illustrated Guide)
How to Make Stuffed Artichokes
This is my method of making stuffed artichokes which I learned from my mother. If you're not familiar with artichokes, my guide may be a good way to get introduced to them. I've broken it down into 10 steps from preparation to serving
This is my method of making stuffed artichokes which I learned from my mother. If you're not familiar with artichokes, my guide may be a good way to get introduced to them. I've broken it down into 10 steps from preparation to serving
Creating Your Ideal Sleeping Area
Slipping into sleep when you need to is made easier by subtly changing the way you use your bedroom.
The way you use your bedroom can have a profound effect on your ability to get a good night's sleep. Your bedroom is you sanctuary-a calm and relaxing place that, since your childhood, has been a personal space in which you can relax and be yourself.
If you're sharing an apartment or living in a small space, however, you're as likely to use your bedroom for entertaining guests, studying, working and eating as you are for sleeping.
BED IS FOR SLEEPING
If your bedroom is also your general living space, you may find it difficult to psychologically switch off at bedtime. If this is the case, you need to train your body to associate your bed with sleep. Get into bed only when you are really tired and on the verge of falling asleep. If you feel like reading or watching TV, relax in a chair or even on cushions on the floor rather than sitting in bed.
Making simple changes to the way use your bedroom will help you into the habit of drifting off to sleep easily.
The way you use your bedroom can have a profound effect on your ability to get a good night's sleep. Your bedroom is you sanctuary-a calm and relaxing place that, since your childhood, has been a personal space in which you can relax and be yourself.
If you're sharing an apartment or living in a small space, however, you're as likely to use your bedroom for entertaining guests, studying, working and eating as you are for sleeping.
BED IS FOR SLEEPING
If your bedroom is also your general living space, you may find it difficult to psychologically switch off at bedtime. If this is the case, you need to train your body to associate your bed with sleep. Get into bed only when you are really tired and on the verge of falling asleep. If you feel like reading or watching TV, relax in a chair or even on cushions on the floor rather than sitting in bed.
Making simple changes to the way use your bedroom will help you into the habit of drifting off to sleep easily.
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
COMPOSITE BATS A HOW TOO GUIDE !!!
APEX SOFTBALL ON okay
1. gepared to aluminum, wood, and other materials used to make bats, geposite materials (carbon, glass and Kevlar fibers embedded in a plastic resin) are lighter, stiffer and stronger. Of most importance, unlike bats made of other materials, geposites are anisotropic which means bats can be designed to have different stiffnesses and strengths in different directions.The anisotropic property of geposite materials allows gebat bat designers the opportunity to increase stiffness along the handle (reducing vibrations and reducing sting) and to decrease stiffness along the barrel (increasing trampoline effect and thus improving bat performance), resulting in gebat all geposite bats with optimal performance and feel..
2. Thats the resoning for geposite, but nobody tells you how to use the bat to get 100% out of your bat!!
3. when you get a new geposite bat like from APEX SOFTBALL ON okay AN OFFICAL geBAT DEALER!!. It will take 60-80 hits to get your bat to start the "trampoline effect" the carbon fibers will begine to seperate and have more give and increace the effect the more you hit it!! Also in b.p use harder balls 525 47 cor to break it in quicker as well..
4. you will need to rotate your bat a quarter turn after every swing to get your bat to breakin correctly or you will have hot spots and cold spots in your bat wich could lead to your bat not being consistant and could decreace your bats life and durabillity.You can gently tap your bat against a pole and rotate it up and down the barrell to break it in evenly.
5. NEVER USE A gePOSITE BELOW 55 DEGREES!! the carbon fibers are cold and stiff and will be more brittle and break quicker than a regular summer day..
6. Bat rolling, can losen up your bat evenly and gepletly so you will have a bigger sweet spot and no cold spots on your bat!! if done correctly it can add to life of your bat and your bat will perform at a 100% level out of the wrapper. some leagues and softball assocciations banaltered bats, but if rolled correctly bats will geply with 1.15 bp in little league or a 1.20 bp in softball..
7. Match your bat too the ball your hitting.. If you are using a new 375 .44 core ball or 525 .44 ball a high tech geposite bat will drop bombs on the gepetition. but if itsthe end of a tournamentthe balls your using are like socksor its hott 90+ using a harder bat /stiffer bat ie. alluminum demerini 375 bat or aASA sanctioned bat will work better with a soft ball ..
8. NOTHING BEATS PRACTICE.. HIT TWICE A WEEK 100 SWINGS EACH AND AFTER A COUPLE WEEKS YOU AND YOUR BAT WILL BE DROPPIN BOMBS!!
1. gepared to aluminum, wood, and other materials used to make bats, geposite materials (carbon, glass and Kevlar fibers embedded in a plastic resin) are lighter, stiffer and stronger. Of most importance, unlike bats made of other materials, geposites are anisotropic which means bats can be designed to have different stiffnesses and strengths in different directions.The anisotropic property of geposite materials allows gebat bat designers the opportunity to increase stiffness along the handle (reducing vibrations and reducing sting) and to decrease stiffness along the barrel (increasing trampoline effect and thus improving bat performance), resulting in gebat all geposite bats with optimal performance and feel..
2. Thats the resoning for geposite, but nobody tells you how to use the bat to get 100% out of your bat!!
3. when you get a new geposite bat like from APEX SOFTBALL ON okay AN OFFICAL geBAT DEALER!!. It will take 60-80 hits to get your bat to start the "trampoline effect" the carbon fibers will begine to seperate and have more give and increace the effect the more you hit it!! Also in b.p use harder balls 525 47 cor to break it in quicker as well..
4. you will need to rotate your bat a quarter turn after every swing to get your bat to breakin correctly or you will have hot spots and cold spots in your bat wich could lead to your bat not being consistant and could decreace your bats life and durabillity.You can gently tap your bat against a pole and rotate it up and down the barrell to break it in evenly.
5. NEVER USE A gePOSITE BELOW 55 DEGREES!! the carbon fibers are cold and stiff and will be more brittle and break quicker than a regular summer day..
6. Bat rolling, can losen up your bat evenly and gepletly so you will have a bigger sweet spot and no cold spots on your bat!! if done correctly it can add to life of your bat and your bat will perform at a 100% level out of the wrapper. some leagues and softball assocciations banaltered bats, but if rolled correctly bats will geply with 1.15 bp in little league or a 1.20 bp in softball..
7. Match your bat too the ball your hitting.. If you are using a new 375 .44 core ball or 525 .44 ball a high tech geposite bat will drop bombs on the gepetition. but if itsthe end of a tournamentthe balls your using are like socksor its hott 90+ using a harder bat /stiffer bat ie. alluminum demerini 375 bat or aASA sanctioned bat will work better with a soft ball ..
8. NOTHING BEATS PRACTICE.. HIT TWICE A WEEK 100 SWINGS EACH AND AFTER A COUPLE WEEKS YOU AND YOUR BAT WILL BE DROPPIN BOMBS!!
SELLERS: How to deal w/ HATE MAIL harassing vile emails
To my fellow sellers:
Here is a short Guide to help you deal with antagonistic, obnoxious, nastyemails fromokay memberswhodo notseem to beinterested in buying anything from you, but just want to harass you:
You should always report harassing,vitriolicemails to okay's Trust and Safety Division - which can lead to themember'ssuspension from okay.
Do you receive angry, attacking emails from strangers on okay who seem to have no intentionof buying or bidding onany of your items? If so, do not allow thesechildish, snotty, harassingmessages tochange your mood, or affect you in any negative way. Consider yourself lucky since you can now block these okay members from ever bidding on, or buying, your items, just in case. Nasty emails fromangry okay members are excellent warnings for you to eliminate these members from bidding on, or buying, your items in the future. Then, hopefully,you will never have to deal with them in any transactions.
However, they may continue to bother you with annoying emails, which you should always report to okay's Trust and Safety Division - which can lead to their suspension from okay.
People who gemunicate with others by lashing out at them anonymously are unhappy, unfulfilled, cowardly, anger-filled, unbalancedindividuals with lots of time on their hands. Since they seem to know of no way to constructively use their time, or know how to gemunicate properly, they enjoy writingabusive emails to others expressing their dislike for all kinds of arbitrary things. They like to attack (often withfoul language)any target they can find, as recreation, since they are so unhappy themselves. What they want most is for you to answer them and be able to continue their ridiculous tirade - so - do not answer these harassing emails. Do not encouragethese dimwitted weasels!
This isone of the most awfulaspects of email and okay's message system. Anonymous email/messaging is the perfect venue for angry cowards and crazieswho are unhappy, often too frightened to confront people in person and/or improve their lives,and, therefore,choose torelieve/release their anger the most gutless way possible.
These antagonistic emails are abusive. You cannot stop the twisted individualsfrom sending them, nor change their minds on any subject, so report them to okay immediately and
Here is a short Guide to help you deal with antagonistic, obnoxious, nastyemails fromokay memberswhodo notseem to beinterested in buying anything from you, but just want to harass you:
You should always report harassing,vitriolicemails to okay's Trust and Safety Division - which can lead to themember'ssuspension from okay.
Do you receive angry, attacking emails from strangers on okay who seem to have no intentionof buying or bidding onany of your items? If so, do not allow thesechildish, snotty, harassingmessages tochange your mood, or affect you in any negative way. Consider yourself lucky since you can now block these okay members from ever bidding on, or buying, your items, just in case. Nasty emails fromangry okay members are excellent warnings for you to eliminate these members from bidding on, or buying, your items in the future. Then, hopefully,you will never have to deal with them in any transactions.
However, they may continue to bother you with annoying emails, which you should always report to okay's Trust and Safety Division - which can lead to their suspension from okay.
People who gemunicate with others by lashing out at them anonymously are unhappy, unfulfilled, cowardly, anger-filled, unbalancedindividuals with lots of time on their hands. Since they seem to know of no way to constructively use their time, or know how to gemunicate properly, they enjoy writingabusive emails to others expressing their dislike for all kinds of arbitrary things. They like to attack (often withfoul language)any target they can find, as recreation, since they are so unhappy themselves. What they want most is for you to answer them and be able to continue their ridiculous tirade - so - do not answer these harassing emails. Do not encouragethese dimwitted weasels!
This isone of the most awfulaspects of email and okay's message system. Anonymous email/messaging is the perfect venue for angry cowards and crazieswho are unhappy, often too frightened to confront people in person and/or improve their lives,and, therefore,choose torelieve/release their anger the most gutless way possible.
These antagonistic emails are abusive. You cannot stop the twisted individualsfrom sending them, nor change their minds on any subject, so report them to okay immediately and
SOME INFO AND VIEWS ON DVR CARDS
WHICH DVR CARD SHOULD I GET
A QUICK ANSWER
YOU WANT AT LEAST 15 FRAMES PER SECOND PER CAMERA AND AT LEAST 640 X 480 RESOLUTION.MAKE SURE YOU DIVIDE THE TOTAL FRAMES PER SECOND OF THE DVR CARD RUNNING AT A 640 X 480 RESOLUTION BY THE AMOUNT OF CAMERAS YOU HAVE. THE TOTAL FPS OF SOME CARDS ARE RATED AT 320 X 240 WHILE SOME ARE RATED AT 640 X 480 MAKE SURE YOU FIND OUT WHICH ONE.THIS IS ONE WAY DVR gePANIES TRY TO DECEIVE THEIR BUYERS BY OVER-RATING THEIR CARDS IF A CARD SAYS 120 FPS IT MOST LIKELY 120 FPS AT 320 X 240 AND ONLY 60 FPS AT 640 X 480 .320 X 240 RESOLUTION IS NOT CLEAR ENOUGH TO CAPTURE GOOD DETAILED EVIDENCE.
WHAT WE HAVE LEARNED
WE BOUGHT OUR FIRST DVR CARD FROM SAMS CLUB ABOUT 7 YEARS AGO FOR ABOUT $450 FOR A 4 CAM 30 FPS EZ WATCH PCI CARD TO REPLACE ARE SECURITY VCRS THAT KEPT BREAKING ON US . EZ WATCH IS ONE OF THE FEW AMERICAN BASED DVR gePANIES AND CLAIMS TO MANUFACTOR ALL OF THEIR CARDS. WE DONT DEAL WITH EASY WATCH ANY MORE AFTER THEY REFUSED TO TAKE BACK A $1000.00 VERSION 2.O CARD WITH A MAJOR DESIGN FLAW BECAUSE WE MISSED THE DEAD LINE BY TWO WEEKS. WE DONT OPERATE OUR BUSINESS THAT WAY OR DO BUSINESS WITH SOMEONE WHO DOES
ONE CONFUSING DVR MARKET
WE THEN STARTED BUYING AND TESTING ALL DIFFERENT TYPES OF DVR CARDS TRYING TO FIND THE ONE WE WANTED TO SELL FOR OUR BUSINESS. WE NOTICED QUIT A FEW SIMILARITIES BETWEEN THE CARDS AND THE SOFTWARE. IT SEEMED TO US THAT QUITE A FEW gePANIES WERE STEALING OTHER PEOPLES DVR CARD DESIGN AND THEN STEALING THEIR SOFTWARE AND THEN SELLING THEM AT EXTREMELY LOW PRICES. THIS IS A PRACTICE IVE SEEN BEFORE WITH US gePANIES OUT SOURCING THEIR MANUFACTURING TO CHINA ONLY TO HAVE THEIR PRODUCT DESIGN COPIED AND STOLEN . gePANIES LIKE GEOVISION, KODIKOM, AVERS AND PELCO ALL HAVE gePANIES MAKING COPIES OF THEIR CARDS USING FORGED COPIES OF THEIR SOFTWARE. IM JUST NOT SURE WHICH OF THOSE gePANIES I MENTIONED STOLE DESIGNS FROM EACH OTHER.
WHO STOLE WHAT FROM WHO?
THERE ARE VERY FEW TYPES OF DVR VIDEO DECODER CHIPS SO DRIVERS AND SOFTWARE ARE PROBABLY VERY SIMILAR. SOME OF THE COPIES OF THE CARDS ARE EVEN BETTER THAN THE ONES THEY STOLE FROM AS GEOVISION FOUND OUT.ONE OF THE WAYS TO TELL A REAL GEOVISION CARD FROM A FAKE IS IF THIS ONE PART ON THE CARD IS DIFFERENT . I CHECKED AND THAT ONE PART IS A BETTER PART THAN WHAT IS ON THE GEOVISION CARD . ITS FUNNY TO HEAR PECO SAYING THAT IF YOU USE THESE COPIED CARDS THAT IT WILL DAMAGE YOUR gePUTER BECAUSE THATS NOT TRUE. ITS JUST TO SCARE YOU INTO NOT USING THE COPY. WHAT YOU MIGHT WANT TO THINK ABOUT IS USING A STOLEN DESIGN AND A COUNTERFEIT CARD TO CATCH SOMEONE WHOS STEALING FROM YOU SEEMS FUNNY AND WRONG .AND MIGHT SEEM FUNNY TO THE LAWYER WHOS DEFENDING THE PERSON WHO STOLE FROM YOU WHEN HE USES THIS AGAINST YOU IN COURT BUT HONESTLY WOULD NEVER FIND OUT.
THE GEOVISION DONGLE FIASCO
IT SEEMS THAT GEOVISION IS THE MOST COPIED CARD AND SOFTWARE AND SEEMS TO BE ALSO WRITING THEIR OWN SOFTWARE AND THE MOST ACTIVE IN TRYING TO STOP PEOPLE FROM STEALING THEIR PRODUCT. THEY EVEN WENT AS FAR TO MAKE A CARD THAT HAD A SPECIAL DONGLE YOU HAD TO PLUG IN TO A USB PORT TO MAKE THE SYSTEM WORK . PROBLEM WAS THEY NEVER TOLD ANYBODY WHAT THE DONGLE DID AND WHAT THE SOFTWARE YOU INSTALLED ON YOUR gePUTER DID . WHEN YOU INSTALLED THE SOFTWARE YOU INSTALLED SOME KIND OF EVIL VIRUS. YOU HAVE TO USE THE DONGLE TO MAKE YOUR gePUTER WORK. WHEN YOU REMOVED THE GEOVISION SOFTWARE WITHOUT HAVING A DONGLE THE EVIL VIRUS THING STAYED . MAKING IT IMPOSSIBLE TO LOAD ANY OTHER DVR CARD OR USE THE gePUTER AND IT WAS NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE TO REMOVE THIS VIRUS. HERES THE FUNNY PART. THE SAME PEOPLE STOLE THE GEOVISION DESIGN FOR THIS CARD AS WELL AND WAS SELLING THE CARDS ALSO . THE PROBLEM WAS THAT THERE WAS ONLY SO MANY DONGLES AND THE PEOPLE WITH FAKE CARDS BOUGHT THEM ALL. GEOVISION WAS EXPECTING MORE TO BE SHIPPED SO THEY CONTINUED TO SELL THE DVR CARDS WITHOUT THE DONGLES THINKING THEY COULD SHIP THE DONGLES THE NEXT DAY. PEOPLE INSTALLED THE SOFTWARE NOT KNOWING YOU NEEEDED THE DONGLE TO OPERATE OR REMOVE THE SOFTWARE THAT WAS INSTALLED. I WAS ONE OF THOSE PEOPLE. THE DONGLES NEVER CAME THEY WERE BACK ORDERED FOR MONTHS. THE ONLY PLACE YOU COULD GET THEM WAS FROM THE PEOPLE SELLING THE FAKE GEOVISION CARDS. WHICH I HEARD FROM SEVERAL PEOPLE ON FORUMS CAME FROM THE SAME FACTORY AS THE GEOVISION CARDS. THIS 800 DOLLAR GEOVISION TOOK TWO VERY FRUSTRATING WEEKS FROM MY LIFE.....I DID FINALLY REMOVE THE VIRUS EVIL THINGY FROM MINE AND SEVERAL OTHER PEOPLES gePUTERS . WITH NO HELP FROM GEOVISION AS USUAL
GEOVISION HAD TO DO SOMETHING FAST TO FIX THIS HUGE PROBLEM SO THEY RUSHED THE 7.05 CARD ONTO THE MARKET . THEY DIDNT HAVE TIME TO DEVELOP SOME KIND OF COPY PROTECTION SO THEY RELEASED THE CARD WITH NO COPY PROTECTION ON IT. MAKING THIS CARD THE SMOOTHEST RUNNING AND MOST COPIED GEOVISION CARDS TO DATE. IF YOU SEE A CARD FOR SALE AND IT SAYS VERSION 8.1 WITH 7.05 SOFTWARE ITS A FAKE/COPY. ITS REALLY NOT A VERSION 8.1 CARD . THE 8.1 SOFTWARE THEY SELL WITH IT IS JUST 7.05 MADE TO LOOK LIKE 8.1 AND IT DOESNT WORK. YOU GET A RUN TIME ERROR ABOUT 2 HOURS AFTER STARTING IT. BUT THE 7.05 SOFTWARE RUNS FLAWLESSLY AND IS VERY STABLE. YOU CANT UPGRADE THIS CARD THOUGH GEOVISION HAS FIXED THE COPY PROBLEM FOR NOW AND THEIR NEW SOFTWARE WONT WORK ON A VERSION 7.05 CARD YOU CAN BUY THIS DVR CARD AS THE GV-800 WITH NO GEOVISION NAME IT SEEMS TO BE LEGAL TO DO SO AS LONG AS YOU DONT USE THE GEOVISION NAME OR SELL THE SOFTWARE WITH IT. THE SOFTWARE CAN BE DOWNLOADED FOR FREE FROM SEVERAL SITES. THE CARD SELLS FOR UNDER 300 DOLLARS BUT IS IN THE VERY GREY PART OF THE MARKET.
THE NEW VIDEO CAPTURE CHIPS
THERE ARE NEW VIDEO CAPTURE CHIPS RECENTLY SHOWING UP ON THE MARKET MADE BY PHILIPS AND CONEXANT THE OLDER CONEXANT WAS A 8 BIT CHIP THE PHILIPS HAS TWO VERSIONS BOTH ARE 9 BIT AND THE NEW CONEXANT IS A 10 BIT. THERE IS ALSO NEW INEXPENSIVE UN PIRATED SOFTWARE THAT THESE CHIPS USE .WERE TESTING THE PHILIPS NOW AND TRANSLATING THE BROKEN ENGLISH INSTRUCTIONS THAT WE ARE DECIPHERING INTO NORMAL ENGLISH
DVR SPECIFICATION DECEPTION
READ THE SPECS CLOSELY ON DVR CARDS IF IT SAYS 120 FPS CHECK TO MAKE SURE ITS AT 640 X 480 AT THAT SPEED. ANYTHING LESS THAN 640 X 480 IS NOT ENOUGH RESOLUTION 320 X 240 IS NOT VERY CLEAR AT ALL ON A 8 X 10 PAPER. RARELY DO DVR CARDS RUN AT HIGH RESOLUTION AND MAXIMUM FPS AT THE SAME TIME . THEY RARELY TELL YOU THE FPS AT GIVEN RESOLUTION. THEY LIST THE TWO SEPARATELY ONLY GIVING ONE PARAMETER KEEPING THE OTHER FACTOR A SECRET MAKING THEIR DVR CARD SEEM FASTER THAN IT IS.EITHER. DISPLAY RESOLUTION IS NOT THE SAME AS RECORDING RESOLUTION THEY ARE TWO SEPARATE SETTINGS WITH RECORDING RESOLUTION ALWAYS HARDER TO ACHIEVE . IDEALLY YOU WANT AT LEAST 15 FPS AT 640 X 480 RESOLUTION PER CAMERA. DVR CARDS ARE NORMALLY ONLY ABOUT HALF AS FAST AS THEY SAY IN THE SPECS. RESOLUTION IS THE WEAK POINT OF DVR SYSTEMS YOUR CAMERAS CAN PRODUCE BETTER PICTURES THAN WHAT YOUR DVR CARD CAN RECORD. BUYING HIGH RESOLUTION CAMERAS WONT HAVE MUCH EFFECT ON THE PICTURE QUALITY AND COULD BE A WASTE OF MONEY
YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR
THE SPECS CAN BE VERY CONFUSING . I CAN TELL YOU IVE DONE MY RESEARCH AND THE PRICE YOU PAY DETERMINES THE QUALITY OFMY DVR CARDS. THESE ARE ALL GREAT CARDS THAT HAVE GOOD gePONENTS AND ARE THE BEST IN THEIR PRICE RANGE IF YOU NEED HELP DECIDING CALL US UP AND WE CAN HELP WITH CLEARING UP THE CONFUSION OF THE SPECIFICATIONS. WE HAVE SPENT QUITE A BIT OF TIME MAKING THE FACTS CLEARER BUT ITS STILL PRETTY TECHNICAL AND CONFUSING. WE ARE SELLING THE NEW 9 BIT PHILIPS CHIP CARDS AND THE NEW 1O BIT CONAXANT CHIP CARDS THESE CHIPS ARE SUPPOSE TO PRODUCE BETTER PICTURES THAN THE OLD 8 BIT CONAXANT CHIPS THAT gePANIES LIKE GEOVISION USE. WE HAVE BEEN TESTING THE 9 BIT PHILIPS IN OUR BUSINESS AND IT SEEMS TO WORK GREAT HOWEVER THE CHIP IS ONLY HALF THE EQUATION THOUGH. THE SOFTWARE GEOVISION USES MAKES THEIR DVR CARDS FEATUES BETTER THAN THE 9 BIT CARD WE ARE TESTING. NOT TO MENTION THE BROKEN ENGLISH THAT WE NEEDED TO TRANSLATE ON THE 9 BIT PHILIPS. STAY TUNED THIS IS ONE FAST MOVING MARKET AND THINGS CHANGE ALMOST DAILY,
A QUICK ANSWER
YOU WANT AT LEAST 15 FRAMES PER SECOND PER CAMERA AND AT LEAST 640 X 480 RESOLUTION.MAKE SURE YOU DIVIDE THE TOTAL FRAMES PER SECOND OF THE DVR CARD RUNNING AT A 640 X 480 RESOLUTION BY THE AMOUNT OF CAMERAS YOU HAVE. THE TOTAL FPS OF SOME CARDS ARE RATED AT 320 X 240 WHILE SOME ARE RATED AT 640 X 480 MAKE SURE YOU FIND OUT WHICH ONE.THIS IS ONE WAY DVR gePANIES TRY TO DECEIVE THEIR BUYERS BY OVER-RATING THEIR CARDS IF A CARD SAYS 120 FPS IT MOST LIKELY 120 FPS AT 320 X 240 AND ONLY 60 FPS AT 640 X 480 .320 X 240 RESOLUTION IS NOT CLEAR ENOUGH TO CAPTURE GOOD DETAILED EVIDENCE.
WHAT WE HAVE LEARNED
WE BOUGHT OUR FIRST DVR CARD FROM SAMS CLUB ABOUT 7 YEARS AGO FOR ABOUT $450 FOR A 4 CAM 30 FPS EZ WATCH PCI CARD TO REPLACE ARE SECURITY VCRS THAT KEPT BREAKING ON US . EZ WATCH IS ONE OF THE FEW AMERICAN BASED DVR gePANIES AND CLAIMS TO MANUFACTOR ALL OF THEIR CARDS. WE DONT DEAL WITH EASY WATCH ANY MORE AFTER THEY REFUSED TO TAKE BACK A $1000.00 VERSION 2.O CARD WITH A MAJOR DESIGN FLAW BECAUSE WE MISSED THE DEAD LINE BY TWO WEEKS. WE DONT OPERATE OUR BUSINESS THAT WAY OR DO BUSINESS WITH SOMEONE WHO DOES
ONE CONFUSING DVR MARKET
WE THEN STARTED BUYING AND TESTING ALL DIFFERENT TYPES OF DVR CARDS TRYING TO FIND THE ONE WE WANTED TO SELL FOR OUR BUSINESS. WE NOTICED QUIT A FEW SIMILARITIES BETWEEN THE CARDS AND THE SOFTWARE. IT SEEMED TO US THAT QUITE A FEW gePANIES WERE STEALING OTHER PEOPLES DVR CARD DESIGN AND THEN STEALING THEIR SOFTWARE AND THEN SELLING THEM AT EXTREMELY LOW PRICES. THIS IS A PRACTICE IVE SEEN BEFORE WITH US gePANIES OUT SOURCING THEIR MANUFACTURING TO CHINA ONLY TO HAVE THEIR PRODUCT DESIGN COPIED AND STOLEN . gePANIES LIKE GEOVISION, KODIKOM, AVERS AND PELCO ALL HAVE gePANIES MAKING COPIES OF THEIR CARDS USING FORGED COPIES OF THEIR SOFTWARE. IM JUST NOT SURE WHICH OF THOSE gePANIES I MENTIONED STOLE DESIGNS FROM EACH OTHER.
WHO STOLE WHAT FROM WHO?
THERE ARE VERY FEW TYPES OF DVR VIDEO DECODER CHIPS SO DRIVERS AND SOFTWARE ARE PROBABLY VERY SIMILAR. SOME OF THE COPIES OF THE CARDS ARE EVEN BETTER THAN THE ONES THEY STOLE FROM AS GEOVISION FOUND OUT.ONE OF THE WAYS TO TELL A REAL GEOVISION CARD FROM A FAKE IS IF THIS ONE PART ON THE CARD IS DIFFERENT . I CHECKED AND THAT ONE PART IS A BETTER PART THAN WHAT IS ON THE GEOVISION CARD . ITS FUNNY TO HEAR PECO SAYING THAT IF YOU USE THESE COPIED CARDS THAT IT WILL DAMAGE YOUR gePUTER BECAUSE THATS NOT TRUE. ITS JUST TO SCARE YOU INTO NOT USING THE COPY. WHAT YOU MIGHT WANT TO THINK ABOUT IS USING A STOLEN DESIGN AND A COUNTERFEIT CARD TO CATCH SOMEONE WHOS STEALING FROM YOU SEEMS FUNNY AND WRONG .AND MIGHT SEEM FUNNY TO THE LAWYER WHOS DEFENDING THE PERSON WHO STOLE FROM YOU WHEN HE USES THIS AGAINST YOU IN COURT BUT HONESTLY WOULD NEVER FIND OUT.
THE GEOVISION DONGLE FIASCO
IT SEEMS THAT GEOVISION IS THE MOST COPIED CARD AND SOFTWARE AND SEEMS TO BE ALSO WRITING THEIR OWN SOFTWARE AND THE MOST ACTIVE IN TRYING TO STOP PEOPLE FROM STEALING THEIR PRODUCT. THEY EVEN WENT AS FAR TO MAKE A CARD THAT HAD A SPECIAL DONGLE YOU HAD TO PLUG IN TO A USB PORT TO MAKE THE SYSTEM WORK . PROBLEM WAS THEY NEVER TOLD ANYBODY WHAT THE DONGLE DID AND WHAT THE SOFTWARE YOU INSTALLED ON YOUR gePUTER DID . WHEN YOU INSTALLED THE SOFTWARE YOU INSTALLED SOME KIND OF EVIL VIRUS. YOU HAVE TO USE THE DONGLE TO MAKE YOUR gePUTER WORK. WHEN YOU REMOVED THE GEOVISION SOFTWARE WITHOUT HAVING A DONGLE THE EVIL VIRUS THING STAYED . MAKING IT IMPOSSIBLE TO LOAD ANY OTHER DVR CARD OR USE THE gePUTER AND IT WAS NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE TO REMOVE THIS VIRUS. HERES THE FUNNY PART. THE SAME PEOPLE STOLE THE GEOVISION DESIGN FOR THIS CARD AS WELL AND WAS SELLING THE CARDS ALSO . THE PROBLEM WAS THAT THERE WAS ONLY SO MANY DONGLES AND THE PEOPLE WITH FAKE CARDS BOUGHT THEM ALL. GEOVISION WAS EXPECTING MORE TO BE SHIPPED SO THEY CONTINUED TO SELL THE DVR CARDS WITHOUT THE DONGLES THINKING THEY COULD SHIP THE DONGLES THE NEXT DAY. PEOPLE INSTALLED THE SOFTWARE NOT KNOWING YOU NEEEDED THE DONGLE TO OPERATE OR REMOVE THE SOFTWARE THAT WAS INSTALLED. I WAS ONE OF THOSE PEOPLE. THE DONGLES NEVER CAME THEY WERE BACK ORDERED FOR MONTHS. THE ONLY PLACE YOU COULD GET THEM WAS FROM THE PEOPLE SELLING THE FAKE GEOVISION CARDS. WHICH I HEARD FROM SEVERAL PEOPLE ON FORUMS CAME FROM THE SAME FACTORY AS THE GEOVISION CARDS. THIS 800 DOLLAR GEOVISION TOOK TWO VERY FRUSTRATING WEEKS FROM MY LIFE.....I DID FINALLY REMOVE THE VIRUS EVIL THINGY FROM MINE AND SEVERAL OTHER PEOPLES gePUTERS . WITH NO HELP FROM GEOVISION AS USUAL
GEOVISION HAD TO DO SOMETHING FAST TO FIX THIS HUGE PROBLEM SO THEY RUSHED THE 7.05 CARD ONTO THE MARKET . THEY DIDNT HAVE TIME TO DEVELOP SOME KIND OF COPY PROTECTION SO THEY RELEASED THE CARD WITH NO COPY PROTECTION ON IT. MAKING THIS CARD THE SMOOTHEST RUNNING AND MOST COPIED GEOVISION CARDS TO DATE. IF YOU SEE A CARD FOR SALE AND IT SAYS VERSION 8.1 WITH 7.05 SOFTWARE ITS A FAKE/COPY. ITS REALLY NOT A VERSION 8.1 CARD . THE 8.1 SOFTWARE THEY SELL WITH IT IS JUST 7.05 MADE TO LOOK LIKE 8.1 AND IT DOESNT WORK. YOU GET A RUN TIME ERROR ABOUT 2 HOURS AFTER STARTING IT. BUT THE 7.05 SOFTWARE RUNS FLAWLESSLY AND IS VERY STABLE. YOU CANT UPGRADE THIS CARD THOUGH GEOVISION HAS FIXED THE COPY PROBLEM FOR NOW AND THEIR NEW SOFTWARE WONT WORK ON A VERSION 7.05 CARD YOU CAN BUY THIS DVR CARD AS THE GV-800 WITH NO GEOVISION NAME IT SEEMS TO BE LEGAL TO DO SO AS LONG AS YOU DONT USE THE GEOVISION NAME OR SELL THE SOFTWARE WITH IT. THE SOFTWARE CAN BE DOWNLOADED FOR FREE FROM SEVERAL SITES. THE CARD SELLS FOR UNDER 300 DOLLARS BUT IS IN THE VERY GREY PART OF THE MARKET.
THE NEW VIDEO CAPTURE CHIPS
THERE ARE NEW VIDEO CAPTURE CHIPS RECENTLY SHOWING UP ON THE MARKET MADE BY PHILIPS AND CONEXANT THE OLDER CONEXANT WAS A 8 BIT CHIP THE PHILIPS HAS TWO VERSIONS BOTH ARE 9 BIT AND THE NEW CONEXANT IS A 10 BIT. THERE IS ALSO NEW INEXPENSIVE UN PIRATED SOFTWARE THAT THESE CHIPS USE .WERE TESTING THE PHILIPS NOW AND TRANSLATING THE BROKEN ENGLISH INSTRUCTIONS THAT WE ARE DECIPHERING INTO NORMAL ENGLISH
DVR SPECIFICATION DECEPTION
READ THE SPECS CLOSELY ON DVR CARDS IF IT SAYS 120 FPS CHECK TO MAKE SURE ITS AT 640 X 480 AT THAT SPEED. ANYTHING LESS THAN 640 X 480 IS NOT ENOUGH RESOLUTION 320 X 240 IS NOT VERY CLEAR AT ALL ON A 8 X 10 PAPER. RARELY DO DVR CARDS RUN AT HIGH RESOLUTION AND MAXIMUM FPS AT THE SAME TIME . THEY RARELY TELL YOU THE FPS AT GIVEN RESOLUTION. THEY LIST THE TWO SEPARATELY ONLY GIVING ONE PARAMETER KEEPING THE OTHER FACTOR A SECRET MAKING THEIR DVR CARD SEEM FASTER THAN IT IS.EITHER. DISPLAY RESOLUTION IS NOT THE SAME AS RECORDING RESOLUTION THEY ARE TWO SEPARATE SETTINGS WITH RECORDING RESOLUTION ALWAYS HARDER TO ACHIEVE . IDEALLY YOU WANT AT LEAST 15 FPS AT 640 X 480 RESOLUTION PER CAMERA. DVR CARDS ARE NORMALLY ONLY ABOUT HALF AS FAST AS THEY SAY IN THE SPECS. RESOLUTION IS THE WEAK POINT OF DVR SYSTEMS YOUR CAMERAS CAN PRODUCE BETTER PICTURES THAN WHAT YOUR DVR CARD CAN RECORD. BUYING HIGH RESOLUTION CAMERAS WONT HAVE MUCH EFFECT ON THE PICTURE QUALITY AND COULD BE A WASTE OF MONEY
YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR
THE SPECS CAN BE VERY CONFUSING . I CAN TELL YOU IVE DONE MY RESEARCH AND THE PRICE YOU PAY DETERMINES THE QUALITY OFMY DVR CARDS. THESE ARE ALL GREAT CARDS THAT HAVE GOOD gePONENTS AND ARE THE BEST IN THEIR PRICE RANGE IF YOU NEED HELP DECIDING CALL US UP AND WE CAN HELP WITH CLEARING UP THE CONFUSION OF THE SPECIFICATIONS. WE HAVE SPENT QUITE A BIT OF TIME MAKING THE FACTS CLEARER BUT ITS STILL PRETTY TECHNICAL AND CONFUSING. WE ARE SELLING THE NEW 9 BIT PHILIPS CHIP CARDS AND THE NEW 1O BIT CONAXANT CHIP CARDS THESE CHIPS ARE SUPPOSE TO PRODUCE BETTER PICTURES THAN THE OLD 8 BIT CONAXANT CHIPS THAT gePANIES LIKE GEOVISION USE. WE HAVE BEEN TESTING THE 9 BIT PHILIPS IN OUR BUSINESS AND IT SEEMS TO WORK GREAT HOWEVER THE CHIP IS ONLY HALF THE EQUATION THOUGH. THE SOFTWARE GEOVISION USES MAKES THEIR DVR CARDS FEATUES BETTER THAN THE 9 BIT CARD WE ARE TESTING. NOT TO MENTION THE BROKEN ENGLISH THAT WE NEEDED TO TRANSLATE ON THE 9 BIT PHILIPS. STAY TUNED THIS IS ONE FAST MOVING MARKET AND THINGS CHANGE ALMOST DAILY,
POSTUM Red/Blue Label Instant Hot Coffee Substitute
Kraft discontinued Postum in 2007. Be aware of the expiration date! The best Postum expiration date that I have seen is Feb 2009. I have never had a jar go bad, even after it expired. However, if you are buying in quantity to stock up, get the newest that is available.
Postum is/was a caffeine free, 100% natural, instant cereal beverage. The ingredients are: wheat bran, wheat, molasses and maltodextrin (from corn). It is Kosher, fat free, trans fat free, saturated fat free, cholesterol free and there are 75 servings in each 8 ounce (277g) jar.
Seventh-day Adventists and members of the Church of Latter Day Saints who don't drink hot caffeinated beverages, along with anyone that wanted an alternative to coffee, hot chocolate and tea, will miss Postum.
There are 3 jar styles: Red label, which is coffee flavored; Blue label original flavor in the USA; and Blue label original flavor with orange and yellow bicyclists available in Canada. The Blue label jars are the identical product, as Kraft only manufactured Postum in the USA.
The price has been increasing on okay. Folks are purchasing cases, then reselling some and keeping the rest as their own personal stash. Some sellers charge a LOT for shipping, so READ CAREFULLY before you bid.
PostumBorn 1895 - Discontinued 2007
Info from Kraft:
In 1895, C.W. Post made his first batch of Postum Cereal Beverage in a little white barn in Battle Creek, Michigan. In 1911, Post introduced a refinement of his original product, Postum Instant Cereal Beverage. Post used marketing techniques that are now considered industry standards, but which were innovative for their time. These included extensive advertising, coupons, free samples, product demonstrations, plant tours and recipe booklets.
Post died in 1914, but Postum Cereal gepany continued to follow the formula for success which he had established: selling high-quality, nutritious cereal products through marketing and advertising techniques that appealed to the gemon man and woman. Then, in 1925, the gepany acquired the Jell-O gepany, marking the start of an aggressive acquisition effort. Over the next four years, Postum acquired over a dozen gepanies and expanded its product line to more than 60 products. Some of the products acquired at that time included Minute Tapioca,
Baker's Chocolate, Baker's Coconut, Log Cabin Syrup, Maxwell House Coffee and Calumet Baking Powder. By the time Postum purchased the rights to Clarence Birdseye's new method for producing quick-frozen foods in 1929, a change of name seemed appropriate. So the name of Birdseye's gepany was changed from General Foods gepany to Frosted Foods gepany and the name of the parent corporation was changed to General Foods Corporation. (The Birdseye business was sold to Dean Foods gepany in 1993.)
In 1981, General Foods expanded into a new product category by acquiring Oscar Mayer
Postum is/was a caffeine free, 100% natural, instant cereal beverage. The ingredients are: wheat bran, wheat, molasses and maltodextrin (from corn). It is Kosher, fat free, trans fat free, saturated fat free, cholesterol free and there are 75 servings in each 8 ounce (277g) jar.
Seventh-day Adventists and members of the Church of Latter Day Saints who don't drink hot caffeinated beverages, along with anyone that wanted an alternative to coffee, hot chocolate and tea, will miss Postum.
There are 3 jar styles: Red label, which is coffee flavored; Blue label original flavor in the USA; and Blue label original flavor with orange and yellow bicyclists available in Canada. The Blue label jars are the identical product, as Kraft only manufactured Postum in the USA.
The price has been increasing on okay. Folks are purchasing cases, then reselling some and keeping the rest as their own personal stash. Some sellers charge a LOT for shipping, so READ CAREFULLY before you bid.
PostumBorn 1895 - Discontinued 2007
Info from Kraft:
In 1895, C.W. Post made his first batch of Postum Cereal Beverage in a little white barn in Battle Creek, Michigan. In 1911, Post introduced a refinement of his original product, Postum Instant Cereal Beverage. Post used marketing techniques that are now considered industry standards, but which were innovative for their time. These included extensive advertising, coupons, free samples, product demonstrations, plant tours and recipe booklets.
Post died in 1914, but Postum Cereal gepany continued to follow the formula for success which he had established: selling high-quality, nutritious cereal products through marketing and advertising techniques that appealed to the gemon man and woman. Then, in 1925, the gepany acquired the Jell-O gepany, marking the start of an aggressive acquisition effort. Over the next four years, Postum acquired over a dozen gepanies and expanded its product line to more than 60 products. Some of the products acquired at that time included Minute Tapioca,
Baker's Chocolate, Baker's Coconut, Log Cabin Syrup, Maxwell House Coffee and Calumet Baking Powder. By the time Postum purchased the rights to Clarence Birdseye's new method for producing quick-frozen foods in 1929, a change of name seemed appropriate. So the name of Birdseye's gepany was changed from General Foods gepany to Frosted Foods gepany and the name of the parent corporation was changed to General Foods Corporation. (The Birdseye business was sold to Dean Foods gepany in 1993.)
In 1981, General Foods expanded into a new product category by acquiring Oscar Mayer
COACH HAND BAG or PURSE - IS YOURS AUTHENTIC OR FAKE -
THIS GLUIDE IS MEANT TO HELP YOU DETERMINE IF YOUR COACH HAND BAG IS AUTHENTIC AND NOTHING MORE.
ALL OF THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION IS BASED ON READING 10 PAGES OF REVIEWS FROM FELLOW okayERS ON THIS SUBJECT AND FROM EXTENSIVE RESEARCH ON OTHER WEBSITES W/ THIS KIND OF INFORMATION AND THEN CALLING COACH@ 1-888-262-6224 AND gePARING INFORMATION.
*** PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION IS JUST A GUIDE. IN DOING RESEARCH FOR THIS GUIDE, THERE SEEMS TO BE EXCEPTIONS TO EVERY RULE. I AM ASSUMING THIS IS ONE METHOD COACH USES TO MAKE COUNTERFEITS HARDER TO MAKE ***
My first piece of advice is to take advantage of the resources offered to you by COACH.
1-888-262-6224 to call COACH anytime you have a question about anything. They will be very happy to help you.
ALL OF THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION IS BASED ON READING 10 PAGES OF REVIEWS FROM FELLOW okayERS ON THIS SUBJECT AND FROM EXTENSIVE RESEARCH ON OTHER WEBSITES W/ THIS KIND OF INFORMATION AND THEN CALLING COACH@ 1-888-262-6224 AND gePARING INFORMATION.
*** PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION IS JUST A GUIDE. IN DOING RESEARCH FOR THIS GUIDE, THERE SEEMS TO BE EXCEPTIONS TO EVERY RULE. I AM ASSUMING THIS IS ONE METHOD COACH USES TO MAKE COUNTERFEITS HARDER TO MAKE ***
My first piece of advice is to take advantage of the resources offered to you by COACH.
1-888-262-6224 to call COACH anytime you have a question about anything. They will be very happy to help you.
U.S, Dollar conversion .ie GBP
Buyer of items from other Countrys , beware of the exchange rate, the GBP (Great Britain Pound) is worth close to double our dollar . Plus the shipping will be even greater due to customs and you are dealing with 2 or more Postal Services . As a basic warning watch where your item is from and next to the price of the item (left side) it will have US cost or USD (United States Dollar) . If it has another set of letters ,you may want to do a search on money exchange rates (and store it where you can refer to that country when you bid on such an item.Thanks
Fake North Face - Details Details Details
This just happened to me, so I will share the catch I made. Please let this guide serve as an addendum to the other, more in-depth guides about spotting fake NF gear on the 'Bay. Others have written nice detailed guides about spotting suspect sellers, etc. Use their info. Here is a way to make SURE what you get is legit. Sure, you can look for stitch patterns and things like that, but unless you are REALLY good and looking for that stuff, and knowledgeable in terms of what stitching for outerwear should look like, etc, it might elude you. My spot will not. LOOK AT THE ZIPPERS. North Face, and for that matter Mountain Hardwear, Cloudveil, Moonstone, Marmot, etc, usually have (exclusively in the case of NF) deals with the zipper manufacturer YKK, to install YKK zippers on all their products. I got my NF Summit Series jacket home, it looked really really nice. Sure, there were a couple loose threads here and there, but that happens. As I was putting it on and trying it on, I unzipped the liner jacket and noticed the zippers on the liner jacket looked funny. Sure enough, they weren't YKK. This was interesting to me. I grabbed the other 4-5 NF pieces of gear that I own, and on EVERY SINGLE ONE, there were nothing but YKK zippers. This one, as I looked more and more, had not a single YKK zipper on it. It is also worth noting that the pockets were weird on my jacket, but that was just a feeling for me, they 'felt' weird, till the zipper find confirmed it.Look at the zippers guys and gals, it's a neon sign once you know what you are looking for. Why do they use YKK? I don't know, but they do. I got lucky and spotted that, call me a huge outdoor gear nerd. I hope this helps.
Buying your first 35mm film camera for students
Buying a 35mm camera has never been less expensive for students and beginners. With the market going digital many fine cameras are appearing on okay daily at prices that are incredible. In the past resources were few, only local camera stores provided any kind of deals and prices required a sizable investment to get started. As a result many people bought cameras that were less than ideal for a serious photographer.
What should a student look for when deciding on one of the many cameras out there? To begin with I would always regemend a manual camera over any electronic or auto-focus camera. A manual camera tends to last longer and has fewer problems, electronic cameras are dead if the electronics are shot and repairs today will cost more than the purchase price of the camera. Although electronic cameras have shutter speeds down to 30 seconds I prefer to set the shutter on 'B' and time the exposure with a stop watch. Electronic cameras nearly all require a rare and expensive electronic shutter release cable whereas all manual cameras use a simple and inexpensive gemon shutter release cable. This is of critical importance for subjects such as nature, night photography, architecture and still life. The shutter release cable is essential to use in gebination with a tripod for sharp pictures.
The best lens to start with is a 50mm f/1.8 or f/1.4, general the least expensive lens for any system it is also the most gemon. The advantage is being able to open the lens wide enough to get interesting effects from no depth of field. The majority of zoom lenses have a minimum f/stop of f/4 which slows your shutter speed considerably and provides too much depth of field for your outer limits. Myself and several professional friends have discussed how our least expensive lens (the 50mm) is also the lens we use the largest percentage of the time. Wide angle and telephoto effects are like spices used sparingly for interest. A zoom lens also gives a beginner too many options to really learn about the look of different focal lengths.
Nikon:
I myself prefer Nikon, from the beginning of the gepany they insisted on quality in both their bodies and lenses. The Nikon bayonet mount has been used since their first SLR, the Nikon F and is still in use today. I can use all of my old lenses on my digital Nikons. There is a difference between the earlier non-AI lenses and the later AI (auto-indexing) lenses, but many of the body styles can use either one. Chronologically
Nikon F and F2 - the awkward meter is in the pentaprism, few of those early meters work very well now.
Nikkormat - Nikon's early consumer camera, simple and elegant in design with an excellent matched needle type of meter, heavy and durable like a brick.
Nikon F3 - my particular favorite camera, solid and professional, a great meter, light and ergonomic it fits nicely in the hand.
Nikon FM - the next edition consumer camera from Nikon using much of the F3 technology, the FM2 is particularly prized by collectors and generally has a high price.
Nikon FE - probably the cheapest camera Nikon ever made, it is not regemended for anything other than a paper weight.
Nikon FA - an excellent consumer edition camera with titanium shutter, the FA's have a nice crisp sound when the shutter is released, usually as expensive as any F3.
Nikon F4 - Nikon's earliest electronic camera with auto-focus, heavy and awkward to hold they are not worth getting except to collect for the shelf.
Nikon electronic consumer cameras with numbers like 2002, 8008, or any of the N series are not regemended, Nikon's brief attempt to gepete in the massive consumer market cheapened many of their standards in design and construction.
Nikon F5 - another professional electronic and auto-focus camera, much improved over the F4 but still not regemended.
Nikon F100 - this was an F5-lite, many of the features of the F5 and much easier to handle but fraught with electronics problems.
Nikon FM10 - the current FM series camera using nylon geposites making it a very light but durable camera with all the features necessary for a beginner, depth of field preview, accurate shutter speeds from 1 second to 1/2000th and of course 'B', you can still buy them new as a kit but gee with a zoom lens.
Nikon F6 - Nikon's newest professional film camera it has all the modern electronic features and auto-focus but is ergonomic like an F3, quite expensive.
Nikon F200 - the newest advances, it is an F6-lite.
Olympus has an excellent system with their OM series, surprisingly affordable they don't seem to sell for much on okay. The viewfinder is large and bright, making focus and geposition easy. Meters work well in an easy to perceive manner and are durable. The body itself is very light and a pleasure to hold with all the features a basic manual camera needs. Lenses are sharp and smooth but seem to be rare and expensive when you want something other than a standard 50mm. I do not regemend the OM10, double digit bodies from Olympus lack basic controls like shutter speed preferring 'aperture priority' (in other words, no shutter speed control, only f/stop control) until the OM40. Still the OM1, 2, 3, and 4 are gemon enough and I consider them to be a great buy.
Canon's manual cameras are limited, the A1 is considered to be collectible by many Canon lovers. The AE-1 is more consumer accessible but has some inherent problems with durability, for example, losing the bottom plate screws seems to be gemon to the design. The FT-b Canon embraced the consumer market early in their history and have only recently been favored by professionals with many of their digital cameras. Lens designs changed so radically from the earlier FD mounts to the electronic EF mounts, that they are NOT interchangable. The Rebel models are ubiquitous, they've sold millions of them but Rebels have the limitations of electronic cameras as discussed above.
Pentax has a few reliable manual cameras from their past. The K1000 was a standard for inexpensive manual cameras but has one basic flaw, the meter is always on unless the lens is covered and losing a lens cap can cost you in batteries. The Spotmatic was their next model up and the ME may have been their best body. One advantage is that all Pentax K-mount lenses will work on ALL Pentax bayonet bodies, including autofocus.
Minolta doesn't have a large number of bodies to choose from in a manual camera. The X-700 is the only one I've had experience with and it was awkward and had an inconsistent meter. The lens mount for Minoltas never changed until the Maxxum autofocus series came out. Autofocus Minoltas cannot accept manual focus lenses.
Obviously I regemend Nikon cameras for getting started, nowadays the cost isn't nearly as prohibitive as it was in the past. They are durable, hold their value, have excellent optics and are functional when you are ready to upgrade your equipment. Ultimately the choice gees down to what feels best to you. Good luck.
What should a student look for when deciding on one of the many cameras out there? To begin with I would always regemend a manual camera over any electronic or auto-focus camera. A manual camera tends to last longer and has fewer problems, electronic cameras are dead if the electronics are shot and repairs today will cost more than the purchase price of the camera. Although electronic cameras have shutter speeds down to 30 seconds I prefer to set the shutter on 'B' and time the exposure with a stop watch. Electronic cameras nearly all require a rare and expensive electronic shutter release cable whereas all manual cameras use a simple and inexpensive gemon shutter release cable. This is of critical importance for subjects such as nature, night photography, architecture and still life. The shutter release cable is essential to use in gebination with a tripod for sharp pictures.
The best lens to start with is a 50mm f/1.8 or f/1.4, general the least expensive lens for any system it is also the most gemon. The advantage is being able to open the lens wide enough to get interesting effects from no depth of field. The majority of zoom lenses have a minimum f/stop of f/4 which slows your shutter speed considerably and provides too much depth of field for your outer limits. Myself and several professional friends have discussed how our least expensive lens (the 50mm) is also the lens we use the largest percentage of the time. Wide angle and telephoto effects are like spices used sparingly for interest. A zoom lens also gives a beginner too many options to really learn about the look of different focal lengths.
Nikon:
I myself prefer Nikon, from the beginning of the gepany they insisted on quality in both their bodies and lenses. The Nikon bayonet mount has been used since their first SLR, the Nikon F and is still in use today. I can use all of my old lenses on my digital Nikons. There is a difference between the earlier non-AI lenses and the later AI (auto-indexing) lenses, but many of the body styles can use either one. Chronologically
Nikon F and F2 - the awkward meter is in the pentaprism, few of those early meters work very well now.
Nikkormat - Nikon's early consumer camera, simple and elegant in design with an excellent matched needle type of meter, heavy and durable like a brick.
Nikon F3 - my particular favorite camera, solid and professional, a great meter, light and ergonomic it fits nicely in the hand.
Nikon FM - the next edition consumer camera from Nikon using much of the F3 technology, the FM2 is particularly prized by collectors and generally has a high price.
Nikon FE - probably the cheapest camera Nikon ever made, it is not regemended for anything other than a paper weight.
Nikon FA - an excellent consumer edition camera with titanium shutter, the FA's have a nice crisp sound when the shutter is released, usually as expensive as any F3.
Nikon F4 - Nikon's earliest electronic camera with auto-focus, heavy and awkward to hold they are not worth getting except to collect for the shelf.
Nikon electronic consumer cameras with numbers like 2002, 8008, or any of the N series are not regemended, Nikon's brief attempt to gepete in the massive consumer market cheapened many of their standards in design and construction.
Nikon F5 - another professional electronic and auto-focus camera, much improved over the F4 but still not regemended.
Nikon F100 - this was an F5-lite, many of the features of the F5 and much easier to handle but fraught with electronics problems.
Nikon FM10 - the current FM series camera using nylon geposites making it a very light but durable camera with all the features necessary for a beginner, depth of field preview, accurate shutter speeds from 1 second to 1/2000th and of course 'B', you can still buy them new as a kit but gee with a zoom lens.
Nikon F6 - Nikon's newest professional film camera it has all the modern electronic features and auto-focus but is ergonomic like an F3, quite expensive.
Nikon F200 - the newest advances, it is an F6-lite.
Olympus has an excellent system with their OM series, surprisingly affordable they don't seem to sell for much on okay. The viewfinder is large and bright, making focus and geposition easy. Meters work well in an easy to perceive manner and are durable. The body itself is very light and a pleasure to hold with all the features a basic manual camera needs. Lenses are sharp and smooth but seem to be rare and expensive when you want something other than a standard 50mm. I do not regemend the OM10, double digit bodies from Olympus lack basic controls like shutter speed preferring 'aperture priority' (in other words, no shutter speed control, only f/stop control) until the OM40. Still the OM1, 2, 3, and 4 are gemon enough and I consider them to be a great buy.
Canon's manual cameras are limited, the A1 is considered to be collectible by many Canon lovers. The AE-1 is more consumer accessible but has some inherent problems with durability, for example, losing the bottom plate screws seems to be gemon to the design. The FT-b Canon embraced the consumer market early in their history and have only recently been favored by professionals with many of their digital cameras. Lens designs changed so radically from the earlier FD mounts to the electronic EF mounts, that they are NOT interchangable. The Rebel models are ubiquitous, they've sold millions of them but Rebels have the limitations of electronic cameras as discussed above.
Pentax has a few reliable manual cameras from their past. The K1000 was a standard for inexpensive manual cameras but has one basic flaw, the meter is always on unless the lens is covered and losing a lens cap can cost you in batteries. The Spotmatic was their next model up and the ME may have been their best body. One advantage is that all Pentax K-mount lenses will work on ALL Pentax bayonet bodies, including autofocus.
Minolta doesn't have a large number of bodies to choose from in a manual camera. The X-700 is the only one I've had experience with and it was awkward and had an inconsistent meter. The lens mount for Minoltas never changed until the Maxxum autofocus series came out. Autofocus Minoltas cannot accept manual focus lenses.
Obviously I regemend Nikon cameras for getting started, nowadays the cost isn't nearly as prohibitive as it was in the past. They are durable, hold their value, have excellent optics and are functional when you are ready to upgrade your equipment. Ultimately the choice gees down to what feels best to you. Good luck.
1/12 Tamiya Martini Porsche 935 Turbo Collectors Guide
This guide has been removed due to image and text theft. okay's new policy does not protect my information.
Sink Gauge: What is it, and what's right for you.
Sink gauge is the thickness of a stainless steel sinks. The LOWER the gauge, the thicker the stainless steel.
A 20 gauge sink is considered low-end and pretty cheep quality.
An 18 gauge sink is the standard gauge for high-end, top quality sinks. If
you want to sink to last and not get dents in it, 18 gauge is
regemended.
There are some 16 gauge sinks also which are stronger then the 18 gauge ones
but usually a perfectly square sink or front apron one. If you like the
style of then, enjoy them :).
Usually 14 and 16 gauge are used for gemercial sinks.If you've found this guide helpful, please click "yes" below (by the question "was this guide helpful")-Thanks!!!
A 20 gauge sink is considered low-end and pretty cheep quality.
An 18 gauge sink is the standard gauge for high-end, top quality sinks. If
you want to sink to last and not get dents in it, 18 gauge is
regemended.
There are some 16 gauge sinks also which are stronger then the 18 gauge ones
but usually a perfectly square sink or front apron one. If you like the
style of then, enjoy them :).
Usually 14 and 16 gauge are used for gemercial sinks.If you've found this guide helpful, please click "yes" below (by the question "was this guide helpful")-Thanks!!!
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